Rene Andrade’s spot-on sequel to Bacanora already ranks as one of the Valley’s top taquerias.
By Nikki Buchanan | Photography by Rob Ballard
Chef Rene Andrade opened Sonoran-centric Bacanora to universal acclaim in 2021, and he’s been riding the wave ever since. His tiny Grand Avenue restaurant – owned in partnership with Armando Hernandez and Nadia Holguin of Tacos Chiwas fame – was named one of the best new restaurants of 2022 by The New York Times and Esquire, and was a finalist for a James Beard Best New Restaurant award that year. Andrade was a semi-finalist for Beard’s Best Chef Southwest in 2023 and was nominated for 2024. The man’s got his mojo working.
In December, he opened Huarachis Taqueria in Downtown Phoenix sans partners, operating in a bigger space where walk-ins are welcome and the pink, houseplant-filled décor – with both Jesus and hubcaps on display – is quirky but comfortable. Expectations are understandably high, but Huarachis and its short menu have already evolved from mostly good to categorically great.
Besides Mexican beer and Coke, the menu features agave-based cocktails splashed with variously flavored Jarritos sodas. Love the spicy El Valle and tiki-tinged End of Summer alone or with bright, spicy shrimp ceviche so good you’ll want to drink the broth.
Tacos, tucked into grill-blackened flour tortillas and topped with cabbage, white onion and cilantro, come seven ways. Charred, fatty chicharrón and ultra-tender lengua are personal favorites – the lengua veritably gushes with beefy flavor – but carne asada, crisp and faintly chewy tripas, chipotle mayo-slathered fish and mashed potatoes (these tucked in crunchy shells) are all terrific.
These fillings may be added to tortas or outstanding huaraches – flat, oval-shaped masa cakes fried crisp and topped with goodies such as pickled onions and crema. For accompaniment, top these traditional Mexico City street favorites with three excellent salsas: tomatillo, chiltepin and salsa negra.
The pollo asado platter is a splurge ($58 to feed 2-3) of ruddy, hot-as-hell grilled chicken, esquites (creamy, chile-spiked corn), crispy potato disks, frijol dip, tostadas, tortillas, and roasted onions and jalapeños. Even split two ways, it’s a lot of food. Don’t expect to finish it if you’ve eaten an appetizer.
Some say that Huarachis’ prices are high for a taqueria, but the experience includes so much more than street tacos. Factor in cocktails, table service, that insane platter, uniformly excellent food and the magic dust of a superstar, and consider it money well-spent.
Huarachis Taqueria
Cuisine: Mexican
Contact: 814 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, huarachis.com
Hours: Tu-Th 5-10 p.m., F-Sa 5 p.m.-midnight
Highlights: Cocktails ($14); ceviche ($20); tacos ($6); huaraches ($16); pollo asado platter (market price)
