He doesn’t offer it on the menus at his Italian restaurants Virtù Honest Craft or Pizzeria Virtù, but chef Gio Osso knows a thing or two about that most classic of Italian American entrées: chicken Parm. “I grew up in the area where it’s really popular,” he says. “In northern New Jersey, or as I like to call it, the far-left coast of Italy.” Osso has strong opinions on the “breading to sauce to cheese ratio,” and favors simplicity over all.
When & Where: Thursday, May 22, at the PHOENIX office. The tasting began at 3:17 p.m.
Tasting Rules: We picked up eight chicken Parmesan plates from local restaurants around the Valley – that were open during lunch hours. That left out a few prime Parms.
No. 1
DeFalco’s Italian Eatery
“There’s something about the flavor that I just can’t put my finger on,” Osso says of the Scottsdale deli’s Parmigiana. The “mystery flavor” keeps him coming back. defalcosdeli.com
No. 2
RigaTony’s
“There is a lot going on in that sauce,” he says of the family-owned Tempe restaurant’s offering. “A lot of onion in there” contributes to the sauce’s “sweet” taste. rigatonys.com
Quarterfinal Winner
DeFalco’s Italian Eatery
DeFalco’s mystery flavor (possibly peppercorn?) trumps the sweetness of RigaTony’s. “That’s not my bag,” he says of the latter’s allium-forward sauce.
No. 3
The Italiano
Osso finds the proportions of this Scottsdale fine dining spot’s Parmigiana lacking. “It needs more sauce. It needs more cheese. And they need to use a better cheese.” theitaliano.com
No. 4
North Italia
This Valleywide chain’s chicken “looks a little drier than the last one,” he says. Its saving grace: chunky tomato sauce. “They’re using whole tomatoes, and that’s a good sign.” northitalia.com
Quarterfinal Winner
North Italia
North takes it thanks to its formaggio. “The cheese is better on this one,” Osso says. “It’s got a little body to it… there’s more in that than just mozzarella.”
Semifinal Winner
DeFalco’s Italian Eatery
That palate-stumping taste wins again. “This one’s too much,” he says of North’s more complicated sauce. “There’s too much happening.” DeFalco’s is more straightforward.
No. 5
Pubblico Italian Eatery
“This is pounded out a lot more, which is a good sign,” Osso says of the cutlet from this Scottsdale bistro. “It just needs more seasoning… maybe a little more Parmigiano.” pubblicoitalianeatery.com
No. 6
Romanelli’s Italian Deli
“Everyone’s overdoing it with the herbs and spices,” he says, detecting oregano. He praises the “creaminess,” which he surmises comes from cheese in the breading. romanellisitaliandeli.com
Quarterfinal Winner
Pubblico Italian Eatery
Osso prefers Pubblico’s restraint and balance of ingredients in the sauce. Romanelli’s has “too much in the sauce… too much oregano or whatever is in there.”
No. 7
Cucina Tagliani
The Glendale family joint’s chicken Parm needs a little more oomph. “The breading is a little thick. If it was seasoned better, it might have been pretty good.” cucinatagliani.com
No. 8
Vito’s Pizza & Italian Ristorante
“What’s with everybody and the onions?” Osso muses. Still, he takes a shine to this East Valley chain’s dish. “The ratio of breadcrumbs to chicken to sauce to cheese is good.” vitospizza.com
Quarterfinal Winner
Vito’s Pizza & Italian Ristorante
The overall seasoning and golden ratio of Vito’s version wins Osso over. He thinks Cucina Tagliani’s breadcrumb coating needs more salt, pepper and cheese.
Semifinal Winner
Vito’s Pizza & Italian Ristorante
Vito’s pulls ahead of Pubblico. “There’s something about the sauce,” Osso says of Vito’s version. “It’s cleaner, I want to say. Not as much going on.”
Final Champion!
Vito’s Pizza & Italian Ristorante
DeFalco’s chicken is “a little on the drier side,” Osso says. He prefers Vito’s “simpler” chicken Parm, which aligns with a sign he has hanging in his own restaurant: “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.”
