Opened: November 2023
The third and latest location of the growing Trevor’s bottle shop chain has a full-service bar and pizza-centric kitchen – but many of its new fans were certainly oblivious to that fact until Barstool Sports influencer Dave Portnoy showed up in April to live-stream one of his hokey One-Bite Pizza Reviews. Praising its “undercarriage” like a dog show judge examining a panting Shih Tzu, Portnoy declared his slice of margherita very fine indeed. Literally within seconds, Trevor’s was deluged with Top-Sider-wearing Barstool groupies, eager to ride the bandwagon. The demand was so nutso, Trevor’s had to selectively limit takeout orders. Putting all that aside: Yes, the pizza is very solid. Made with local flour from Hayden Flour Mills, the crust of my Spicy Diavola pizza ($18/$28) has an earthy, complex flavor, with just the right crispy-chewy interplay in the, uh, undercarriage, with spicy soppressata, pickled jalapeños and Calabrian chile oil admirably doing the dirty work.
The prosciutto ($20/$30), with a big thatch of arugula dumped over a disc of melted mozzarella and ricotta, was one of the better white pizzas I’ve had in a while, enlivened with dollops of fig jam. Cooked in a combo gas/wood-fired pizza oven, Trevor’s pizzas are not technically Neapolitan – they’re cooked lower and slower – but they are Neapolitan-adjacent, and now that the bros have dispersed, you might be able to take one home.
Wild Card: Spare the carbs with a well-proportioned charcuterie board ($25) or faintly fishy Caesar ($8/$12) with fat, toasty croutons.
3601 E. Indian School Rd., 602-767-4423, trevors.com
