“Utterly shocked” was how Crystal Kass described learning about her 2023 James Beard Award nomination for outstanding pastry chef for her work at Valentine, a modern Southwestern restaurant in Phoenix’s Melrose District. “It’s not something I was expecting or even thought was a possibility,” she says. The wildly talented Kass made it to the semi-finals, and while she didn’t win that award, she’s already racked up some other noteworthy accolades: In 2022, her white Sonoran wheat pretzel was named one of the 25 top restaurant dishes by The New York Times; and in October 2023, Eater recognized her as one of five pastry chefs nationally who are defining restaurant desserts.
What inspired you to become a pastry chef?
I remember baking with my mom when I was very young and learned how to make cookies. I would often make them by myself when I was old enough… It wasn’t until going to college to study kinesiology that I realized it wasn’t fulfilling my needs, so I dropped out and went to The French Pastry School [in Chicago], because that’s where my passion was.
What is your process for creating a new dessert?
Sometimes it starts off with a flavor combination, like mulberries or dates, and then I’ll build off of that… For example, I have an idea to do a tiramisu, but put our Valentine spin on it. How can I make something that’s still familiar, but unique enough for guests to say, “Wow, I’ve never seen tiramisu like this before”?
How much does presentation matter to you?
It’s important because your guests eat with their eyes first, so if they see something on social media or at the restaurant – the table beside them has a dessert and it looks beautiful – then they might want to try it.
What’s the last thing you Googled?
The last tab that I had open was for kitchen aprons.
