Sushi was not on Esther Boado’s brain when she first worked in restaurants to cover expenses in college. Born and raised in the Philippines, Boado moved to the United States in 2013 to study graphic design and play soccer at a small university in Kansas. Relocating to Arizona after graduation, she gained cooking experience at Arizona Wilderness Brewing Co. and Clever Koi before sliding into sushi at Across the Pond in 2021. Leaving to sharpen her skills at Kaizen and Shimogamo, Boado returned to Across to Pond last year as head itamae, bringing fresh Filipino flavors to the Japanese menu.
What’s your favorite fish to work with?
I really enjoy breaking down bluefin tuna. It’s a little bit different, and you have to be precise and cut it the right way or it will be a little too chewy. It takes a little bit longer to learn, which is probably why I enjoy it so much. I like having a goal.
What would people be surprised to know about you?
I’m also a musician and I play five instruments – if you count vocals as an instrument. I play the piano, guitar, bass guitar, drums and vocals. I started playing piano when I was 6, and I took percussion in college.
Any advice for an up-and-coming sushi chef?
Study a lot. The learning curve is very steep, but it’s something that’s so rewarding and fun once you get the hang of it. If you want to learn sushi, find a sushi bar, start in the dish pit and work your way up. If you have the work ethic and don’t give up, it’s very much attainable.
Do you see yourself continuing to be a sushi chef or returning to mainstream cooking?
I really enjoy making sushi and hope to do it for a while. I have little reality checks while I’m at work… I’ll be running through tickets, and I have to stop and remind myself that I’m very lucky to be in the position that I am, and very grateful for the opportunities. Women are rare in the sushi industry.
