Conceding greatness to a high-end restaurant chain from Texas is always a bitter pill – but this new sushi hot spot in Old Town is sweet from start to finish.
by Nikki Buchanan | Photography by Jill Mcnamara
Last winter, when news broke that chef-restaurateur Tyson Cole was bringing Uchi – the ground-breaking Japanese cuisine concept that snagged him a James Beard Award in 2011 – to Old Town Scottsdale, local food freaks were properly agog. Since opening the first Uchi in Austin back in 2003, the Texan has attained sushi-superstar status. He currently operates 13 restaurants under his Hai Hospitality banner, including a recently opened Asian smokehouse co-owned by Aaron Franklin of Franklin Barbecue.
It’s a lot, so I wondered if Uchi Scottsdale, the restaurant’s seventh iteration, could be anything more than an anemic version of the original. Silly me. It’s exceptional in every respect, beginning with staff members who – to a person – exude the cordiality Cole made a foundational aspect of the company from the get-go.
Formerly occupied by Bandera steakhouse, the sparely designed space – vaguely Southwestern, somewhat Japanese, thoroughly modern – conveys warmth and intimacy via its curved wood ceiling, soft lighting and cozy dining spaces. A center-stage bar dispenses tasty cocktails (love the rosemary-perfumed Hachi No Hiza and the spicy Island Heat) while the sushi bar is manned by a formidable crew, including head sushi chef Diego Contreras, who, like chef de cuisine Blake Luecke, worked in Austin and reinforces the mothership’s mindset here.
The huge menu at Uchi (“house” in Japanese) offers seasonal omakase, fantastic happy hour specials, hot and cold small plates, sashimi, nigiri, rolls, premium fish from Tokyo’s Toyosu Fish Market, veggies, deep-fried dishes (very Japanese), and desserts (not very Japanese). Chimichurri, nuoc cham and bagna càuda are as commonplace as ponzu.
Nevertheless, toro sashimi (silky tuna belly, ribboned with fat) looks reasonably old-school, set in a wooden box over ice, the fish dabbed with grated ginger and served with aged soy sauce. So, too, is shime saba – cured Norwegian mackerel, also fatty and full-flavored, which offers the zing of yuzu kosho (chile pepper) and lemon-lime zest. Silver-skinned aji (horse mackerel), strewn with grated ginger and threads of green onion, is served with aged tamari (richer than the usual sushi soy sauce) and is plated, for crunchy contrast, with the fish’s deep-fried skeleton, meant to be eaten whole.
There’s also mild pomfret (nicknamed Indian butterfish for a reason), lifted with a bit of orange zest and yuzu kosho; and plump Hokkaido scallops, dotted with finger lime and toasted nori, both understated touches to enhance delicate flavors, not overpower them.
Although sushi traditions are honored here, few dishes are strictly traditional. Hirame usuzukuri – thinly sliced flounder, sided by a bracing vinaigrette – comes sprinkled with lime zest and crunchy candied quinoa (say what?). Meanwhile, masu (Tasmanian ocean trout) is presented as crudo, the fish slices jeweled with tart, grape-like gooseberries and spicy pickled green papaya. Sesame-herb purée, dappled with cilantro oil, makes for fresh, herbaceous swishing.
The machi cure our bartender dubs “Japanese nachos” is 100-percent fun – smoked yellowtail, crispy garlic and Marcona almonds scattered over yuca chips. Ditto for ham and eggs futomaki, a togarashi-dusted inside-out roll stuffed with pork belly katsu, pickled cucumber and burdock root. Dollops of beer mustard, dotted with egg custard, cleverly emulate sunny side up eggs.
Tempura squash blossoms, a daily special, come stuffed with blue crab and ricotta, their crisp exteriors drizzled with Szechuan honey. Yummy combo. Meanwhile, kabocha tempura (sweet Japanese pumpkin swathed in ultra-crunchy batter and served with ponzu) is the best $6 you’ll ever spend.
The hot entrées are a delight, as well. An oversized plank of charred, 72-hour sous vide short rib, set on a rice pad, makes for luscious meat nigiri. Just as delicious but somewhat more conventional is the Southwest-style quail, crisp-fried and roosted on a schmear of caramelized eggplant, accompanied by sous vide pear, jalapeño, red onion and cilantro. Discounting the corn-nut furikake sprinkled over it, grilled pork ribeye cap, served with huckleberry jam and corn purée, could be straight out of an Austin smokehouse.
For mushroom-lovers, Cole offers a nabe (hot pot) of four different mushrooms with a crunchy rice undercarriage, splash of tentsuyu (tempura dipping sauce) and egg yolk. It’s earthy, nutty deliciousness. During happy hour, I come back for the crispy rice cake, set in creamy salsa verde and surrounded by gai lan and trumpet mushrooms. Just as fantastic as the mushrooms, and merely $7.
Because this is America, Uchi goes completely overboard on dessert. Imagine gushing fried milk fritters with vanilla custard, blondie crumbles, salted fudge and shaved chocolate; wildly original coconut tapioca with pickled blueberries, hazelnuts and lychee sorbet; and jasmine cream, a cool, creamy, not-too-sweet confection of honey crumble, cilantro granita, jasmine cream and pineapple that I’ll crave forevermore.
OK, I concede. A restaurant with seven locations really can be stellar – though I’d argue it’s a rarity. Cole and co.’s genius and work ethic make it possible – along with that winning “mi uchi es su uchi” vibe.
Uchi
Cuisine: Japanese
Contact: 3821 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, 480-916-0916, uchi.uchirestaurants.com
Hours: Su-Th 4-10 p.m., F-Sa 4-11 p.m.
Highlights: Toro sashimi ($22); machi cure ($24); kabocha tempura ($6); ham and eggs futomaki ($13.50); crispy rice cake ($7); quail ($21); jasmine cream ($14)
