Drink This: Leche de Pistacho from Barcoa Agaveria

As an upstairs-downstairs bar devoted entirely to agave-based Mexican spirits, plus a smidge of sotol, Barcoa Agaveria is a true unicorn among bars in the Valley. But if its 40-page list of drinking options seems daunting, chillax and order this utterly approachable mezcal-based cocktail. David Tyda, who opened Barcoa with co-owner Jourdain Blanchette last winter, likens it to a smoky slice of pistachio cake. Cool and creamy, sweet and nutty, tangy and smoky, this balanced sipper uses a meaty mezcal called El Silencio Espadín. For further edification, Tyda recommends ordering a half-pour of the spirit alone – to appreciate what the mixologist started with and where he landed. It’s educational!

For the real deal, go to Barcoa. The recipe below makes a reasonable facsimile, however.

• To begin, swipe one side of the coupe with lime juice and roll it in crushed pistachios.
• Next, mix 1 ½ oz. El Silencio Espadín mezcal, 2 oz. pistachio milk, ¾ oz. lime juice, ½ oz. piloncillo simple syrup* and 4 drops saline solution** in a shaker tin filled with ice.
• Shake and double-strain into the garnished coupe for a mezc education.

*Bring 2 cups piloncillo (break up the sugar in a food processor if it’s cone-shaped) and 1 cup water to boil, stirring until mixed.
**Mix 1 rounded tablespoon salt with 1 cup water. Alternatively, just add a pinch of salt to the cocktail.