Photography by Claudia Johnstone
Awesome design, ho-hum fish make this Palm Springs import a mixed bag in Melrose.
Phoenix may not be famous for sushi, but we’ve had our share of sushi greats: Shinji Kurita at ShinBay, Daisuke Itagaki at Shimogamo and Lori Hashimoto at Hana Japanese Eatery, to name a few, as well as Yasu Hashino from dearly departed Yasu Sushi Bistro and Nobuo at the Teeter House legend Nobuo Fukuda, who was on track to open a new Scottsdale restaurant called Hai Noon this spring.
So, when a sushi-slinging newcomer from another state shows up, I assume he’s done his homework and brought his A-game. With Sandfish Sushi and Whiskey, a Palm Springs import from Japanese-trained chef Engin Onural that recently opened on Seventh Avenue in the Melrose district, it’s hard to tell. Maybe the pleasant but somewhat pedestrian food served here is lauded in Palm Springs.
I’m far more impressed by the snug, Scandinavian-designed space, its ocean theme advanced by shell-shaped tiles and wave-patterned wallpaper alluding to Hokusai’s famous Ukiyo-e print, The Great Wave. A glowing backbar holds a 45-bottle inventory of Japanese whiskies, about which our cordial barman is incredibly knowledgeable. We sample a few, poured over big, beautiful ice cubes. This part is perfect.
What a contrast to the schlocky jalapeño poppers and Philly rolls on the menu. Even two sushi rolls that do read well – The Sandfish and the KoKo, both crammed with interesting ingredients – are ruined by mushy rice that no amount of eel sauce, truffle zest or coconut flakes can fix. Good rice is Sushi 101. I wish I’d ordered the duck liver mousse instead.
Meanwhile, there’s nothing remotely crispy about a crispy salmon skin handroll – all salmon, no skin.
On the plus side, who can resist spicy aioli-drizzled tuna set atop crispy wontons (aka “tostadas”)? Or lightly seared albacore tataki with fermented lime kosho (Japanese chile paste) and taro chips?
Bao buns stuffed with karaage-fried cauliflower, kimchi, yuzu aioli and pickled veggies sound fun, but the flavors are tame. Octopus carpaccio – baptized in ponzu, preserved lemon and citrus- and herb-spiked oils – derives its nutty flavor from sesame seeds, but the dish is too mild to be memorable.
Sandfish’s intimate space and whiskey selection are wonderful, and who knows? Maybe I’ll have better luck next time on the food. So far, not enough bang for my yen.
Sandfish Sushi and Whiskey
Cuisine: Japanese
Contact: 4232 N. Seventh Ave., Phoenix, 602-675-4020, sandfishsushiwhiskey.com
Hours: W-Su 4-10 p.m.
Highlights: Japanese whisky ($14-$65); spicy tuna tostadas ($20); octopus
carpaccio ($38)
