Creamy, ethereal whipped ricotta is getting ample airtime on Valley menus.
By Marilyn Hawkes | Photo: Angelina Aragon
Whoever first called ricotta “the little black dress of cheeses” was spot-on in their assessment. Made from whey curds left over from the production of casein-rich cheeses, ricotta has a delicate, almost neutral taste, which makes it an ideal canvas for inventive chefs, who add air, elbow grease and a variety of sweet or savory elements to create delicious whipped ricotta dishes.
Picazzo’s Healthy Italian Kitchen (five Valley locations, picazzos.com) goes the savory route, serving a generous portion of whipped herb ricotta ($14, pictured) as a starter with a pile of toasted, gluten-free focaccia slices. The cooks whip whole milk ricotta by hand to achieve a light and fluffy texture and then add chopped parsley and chives, salt, cracked black pepper, red pepper flakes and garlic to jazz it up. The result is a buttery, velvety spread that tastes deceivingly rich considering ricotta is one of the healthier cheese choices. Picazzo’s recently added the starter as part of an effort to include more Mediterranean-inspired dishes on the menu. “It’s a refreshing cold appetizer, especially in the summer,” says managing partner Chris Disney. “There’s so much flavor in such a simple dish.”
For many, ordering a charcuterie starter is more than enough for dinner. To that end, Old Town Scottsdale newcomer Mon Chéri (7014 E. First Ave., Scottsdale, 480-664-0222, moncherirestaurants.com) offers The Italian ($40), a “party on a platter” headlined by a sizeable bowl of creamy whipped ricotta brightened with lemon zest and lit up with swirls of hot honey. “The finishing touch, honey-glazed walnuts, introduces a delightful crunch and sweetness that ties the ensemble together,” owner Elexsis Caliskan says. For spreading and dipping, the shareable board comes with bite-size cubes of herbed focaccia and crostini, prosciutto-wrapped bread sticks, Caprese tomato skewers, chunks of Parmesan, house-made fig jam and a few other wonderful things.
Humble Bistro (three Valley locations, humblebistro.com) offers its own, well-stocked version of a charcuterie board, dubbed the Smorgasboard ($24), that sports whipped sopraffina (“super fine”) ricotta with a crater of cayenne- and chile-flecked Arizona honey. “The ricotta has such a neutral flavor, a little sweet and creamy, and by adding the chile honey, we add another layer of flavor,” says executive chef Jorge Gomez, who serves the whipped ricotta with forno bread, an enchanting house-made, sourdough-tinged flatbread. It’s hard to stop eating the warm, oven-blistered bread, but the board boasts many other delights, including grilled artichokes, crispy Brussels sprouts leaves, charred jalapeño hummus with toasted pepitas, slices of pepperoni and capicola, and Vermont white cheddar. If charcuterie boards aren’t your thing, Gomez also features The Gentleman ($19), a sausage pizza with whipped ricotta and chile honey; and cremini sachetti ($21), a roasted mushroom and pasta dish finished with whipped ricotta and lemon zest. Little black dress indeed.
