Dish Fest Q&A: Daisuke Itagaki of Shimogamo

Nikki BuchananFebruary 26, 2024
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Daisuke Itagaki at Shimogamo | Photo by Grace Stufkosky
Daisuke Itagaki at Shimogamo | Photo by Grace Stufkosky

In the weeks leading up to Dish Fest, we’re presenting our readers with exclusive chef interviews so they can learn the stories behind the Best Dishes being served at the third annual food festival.

Japanese-born Daisuke Itagaki has been the executive chef and co-owner of Shimogamo — Chandler’s most revered Japanese restaurant — since he came to the States with his wife Mika Otomo in 2019. Sanae and Oshio Otomo (Mika’s parents) founded the restaurant in 2003, but their daughter and son-in-law updated the décor and revitalized the menu soon after their arrival, adding craft cocktails, a deeper sake and wine list, premium Japanese wagyu, select Japanese fish and fusion dishes such as udon carbonara. Thanks to the couple’s combined talents and effort, Shimogamo offers fine dining in a classy but comfortable setting. Itagaki shares his thoughts about his favorite dishes and Dish Fest.

What is the origin story of your Best Dish?
Our featured dishes for Dish Fest are the Kagoshima Wagyu Roll, Crispy Truffle Snow Crab, and Hokkaido Scallops Carpaccio, which showcase Japanese ingredients and techniques in a way that we hope will delight the palates of global audiences. We serve full portions of these dishes at both our Chandler and newly established Gilbert locations.

Why did you choose these dishes for Best Dish?
We decided to make these dishes to support Japanese producers facing challenges due to trade sanctions imposed by China. Each dish features premium ingredients sourced directly from Japan, reflecting our commitment to showcasing the best of Japanese cuisine while supporting those who cultivate its ingredients.

Can you share one of your favorite food memories?
One of my cherished food memories revolves around the tradition of gathering around a communal pot for meals, a practice common in Japanese households. Whenever there was a cause for celebration, my family would prepare sukiyaki, with my father taking on the role of chef for the evening. Although he really doesn’t cook at all for the family, he took the opportunity with gusto, albeit sometimes with a heavy hand on the sugar, resulting in an overly sweet dish. As I grew older and pursued a career as a chef, it occasionally led to playful clashes in the kitchen. Yet, my father’s unwavering dedication to his signature sweet sukiyaki always brought a smile to his face, reminding us all of the joy found in sharing food and memories with loved ones.

Name a fellow chef/restaurateur you admire and explain why.
Chef Claude Le Tohic, formerly of Joël Robuchon at MGM Grand and currently at the Michelin-starred restaurant ONE65 in San Francisco, embodies the essence of culinary excellence. During our collaboration in Tokyo, I witnessed firsthand his enduring passion, relentless pursuit of perfection, and unwavering humility. Chef Claude’s dedication to his craft serves as an inspiration, reminding me of the importance of continual growth and humility to new learnings in the culinary world.

Another chef deserving of admiration is Chef Marc Zimmerman of GOZU in San Francisco. When we worked together to open Alexander’s Steakhouse in Tokyo, Chef Zimmerman’s deep appreciation for Wagyu led us on a journey across Japan in search of the finest producers. His openness to exploring new culinary frontiers and embracing diverse culinary traditions exemplifies the spirit of culinary innovation and collaboration.

What are you most looking forward to about Dish Fest?
This marks our debut as vendors at a food event in Arizona, and it’s a milestone we’re genuinely excited about. Since our move from Tokyo five years ago, we’ve witnessed significant changes in the culinary landscape here. Now, with the market ripe for new ventures, we’re thrilled to announce the opening of our second location in Gilbert. I can’t wait to connect with food enthusiasts eager to explore new culinary horizons and taste the diverse flavor profiles we have to offer.