Three Bites: A Finer Fajita

Marilyn HawkesJuly 7, 2022
Share This
Photography by Angelina Aragon
Photography by Angelina Aragon

Valley chefs put hot rocks to good use with sizzling, scrumptious molcajete plates.

The Mexicano

4801 E. Cactus Rd., Scottsdale
602-812-2100, themexicano.com
The three-legged mortar and pestle known as a molcajete was originally used to grind grains and spices in Aztec and Mayan civilizations. Today, the volcanic stone vessels are also used to deliver sizzling food to the table in Mexican restaurants, providing a dramatic presentation for shared meals. At The Mexicano, executive chef Fidencio Alatriste serves three versions, including the Sonoran, with shrimp, carne asada and chicken ($39, pictured). Alatriste heats the molcajete to 500 degrees and drapes the proteins over the sides to start the cooking process along with onions, freshly roasted nopales and firm wedges of panela cheese. He then fills the scorching-hot vessel with a feisty dried chile broth tickled with lime juice, so every bite of steak, chicken and fish is tender and packed with flavor. Each order is bolstered with a side of refried pinto beans, Mexican rice, salsa and warm, house-made blue corn tortillas. 

La Parrilla Suiza

1622 S. Stapley Dr., Mesa
480-892-2872, laparrillasuiza.com
La Parrilla Suiza offers molcajete two ways: a combo of charcoal-grilled beef, chicken and shrimp ($24.99); or a seafood mix of grilled shrimp, scallops and fish ($28.99). Both versions sport green and red bell pepper strips, sturdy Mexican cheese, green onions and zucchini spears steeped in the house “secret sauce,” a thin broth lit up with red chiles and perfumed with fresh garlic. The piping-hot molcajete arrives with the goods artfully balanced on top and the usual admonishments not to touch the hot plate; plus blissful, smoky refried beans with a small stack of house-made flour tortillas. Alongside the beans, the kitchen provides ramekins of soothing sour cream and chunky guacamole to enhance the smoke-kissed meat and fish. Every chile-flecked bite is on point, but make sure you have a beverage close by. The burn is real. 

Santo Coyote Mexican Cuisine

7822 N. 12th St., Phoenix
602-975-6503, coyotephx.com
Santo Coyote, which opened in the old Shabu Fondue spot last year, offers a variety of molcajete platters, including an all-vegetable option. However, for a little bit of everything, Tu Molcajete ($26) is the way to go. The platter allows you to pick four of the following: tangy, hand-cut carne asada; garlicky grilled chicken; cecina (thinly sliced beef with smoky undertones); spicy Oaxaca chorizo; grilled whole shrimp; sautéed cod; and an oozing, toasted hunk of Oaxaca cheese. When the red-hot molcajete hits the table, you’ll have to let it cool for a minute, but then dig into your chosen proteins paired with sliced and grilled red and green peppers, charred green onions, roasted chiles and grilled cactus paddles along with rice, beans and corn tortillas. No fiery broth with this molcajete, but plenty of salsa to keep it zesty.