by Marilyn Hawkes | Photo by Angelina Aragon
Though a staple of modern Asian menus, crab rangoon was most likely invented in the 1950s at the original Trader Vic’s in California – an addictive nosh that became a central actor in the restaurant’s theatrical tiki milieu. So, despite being named after the former capital of Burma (now Myanmar), the crispy, cream-cheese-filled wonton is a patently American creation.
Mixology’s current tiki renaissance has inspired elevated renditions of the dish, including the delightful crab rangoon cigars ($22, pictured) at recently rebranded Shiv Steakhouse (7373 E. Camelback Rd., Scottsdale, 480-841-8305, shivscottsdale.com). Shiv turns a classic on its head by shaping the wontons into long cylinders made from rice paper and filling them with jumbo lump crab, stretchy mozzarella, cream cheese and serrano peppers. According to Riot Hospitality culinary director Dustin Cooke, the rangoons are fried in beef tallow until crisp, then edge-dipped in red tobiko caviar, giving the illusion of a lit cigar. Finally, the slender bites are perched on a vessel resembling a cigar dish, filled with a pool of sweet and sour dipping sauce peppered with roasted pineapple along with honey and rice vinegar. “It’s a whimsical dish. We wanted to be nostalgic and fun, but as serious-tasting as possible,” Cooke says.
Not typically found in Asian cooking, cream cheese is a dead giveaway to the dish’s American roots. At Valley newcomer JING (10605 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, 602-699-8888, jingrestaurant.com), king crab rangoons ($23) are made with a blend of cream cheese and Gournay, a lighter, fluffier French cheese flavored with garlic, chives and herbs. JING chef Thomas Griese adds a mash-up of king crab, Maryland jumbo lump blue crab and kanikama (imitation crab) and tucks the filling inside a wonton wrapper crisped in oil. Each pillowy, triangle-shaped wonton is hand-folded (four to an order) and set on a generous drizzle of sweet and sour Thai chili-plum sauce. “You get some heat and some sweet,” Griese says. The shareable crab bites will be coming soon to brunch, he adds.
Modern Asian favorite Clever Koi (two Valley locations, cleverkoi.com) offers avocado crab rangoon ($16) in a more traditional, four-pointed star-shaped posture, filled with crab, avocado and cream cheese mixed with scallions, shaoxing (fermented rice wine), turmeric and sesame oil. After filling the wontons and pinching the sides together, chefs submerge the rangoons in hot oil until crunchy. “Right out of the fryer, we add a light dusting of powdered sugar, which gives it a little bit of sweetness,” says culinary director Brandon Jedd. Clever Koi serves the crab bouquets on a bed of Napa cabbage with a pair of house-made dipping sauces – hot mustard and pineapple-chili sauce. “Nearly every table starts with an order of rangoons or potstickers,” Jedd says.
