A new wave of cabbage dishes shows what innovative chefs can do with a little heat and some hearty leaves.
If cabbage isn’t your go-to vegetable, maybe it’s time to give the cruciferous veggie another look. Once relegated as a soggy sidekick to corned beef, the nondescript vegetable is enjoying a culinary renaissance, popping up on Valley menus in creative ways.
At Uptown hot spot Tesota (300 W. Camelback Rd., Phoenix, 602-989-8456, tesotaphx.com), chef Doug Robson presents charred cabbage ($9, pictured) as a side dish. First, he steams the dense, multi-leaved head, then segments and chars it over mesquite and pecan wood, giving the cabbage a subtle smoky flavor. Robson then places a wedge on a pool of yogurt-masala sauce punched up with curry, lemon juice and a bit of honey. For another pop of flavor, he blankets the cabbage with romesco sauce, a blend that includes red pepper coulis and toasted almonds. The crowning touch: arugula pesto with a healthy dose of basil, pistachios and garlic, and a sprinkle of crispy shallots. “It’s a flavor bomb in your mouth,” Robson says. “I’m always trying to think outside the box [on recipes], and these flavors play well together.”
Similarly, chef Russell LaCasce serves charred cabbage ($11) as a savory vegetarian side dish at Hotel Valley Ho’s ZuZu (6850 E. Main St., Scottdale, 480-421-7997, hotelvalleyho.com) – but with a couple of garnishing twists. He tosses a quartered cabbage in olive oil, sears it in a sauté pan and then roasts it to finish. When plating, he fans out the wedge and drizzles briny soy-yuzu vinaigrette bumped up with mirin, rice vinegar and sambal chili paste. For the garnish, LaCasce deep-fries grated Kennebec potatoes until golden brown, then salts them and crumbles them over the cabbage, finishing the dish with grated cured eggs, made in-house from refrigerated egg yolks and soy sauce. We couldn’t get enough of those crunchy potatoes – the perfect addition to this vibrant dish – and gobbled up every crusty bit.
Jungle-inspired Filthy Animal (740 S. Mill Ave., Tempe, 480-397-1046, thisisfilthyanimal.com), serves wood-fired napa cabbage ($19, lunch; $21, dinner) as a vegan main dish. Steamed first and then charred over white oak and pecan woods, the cabbage is tender, smoky and caramelized. The chefs then top the cabbage with chamoy, a Mexican sauce made from ancho chiles and dried cherries along with citrus juices, lending a sweet, tart and fiery dimension to the plate. Topped with vegan Parmesan cheese, toasted quinoa and a drizzle of Sichuan pepper-spiked mala sauce, this cabbage dish is high-octane spicy.
“The intention behind the dish is to offer a satisfying and flavorful experience that is as substantial as ordering a steak,” says culinary director Ivan Gonzalez. “It’s citrusy, crispy, savory and sweet, just like a full meal.”
