Fabulous Faux-teins: What trickery is this?
By Madison Rutherford | Original photography by Mirelle Inglefield
In the fashion world, trends are cyclical. The food industry is no different – constantly returning to and improving on concepts from the past. According to Whole Foods Market’s annual Top 10 Food Trends, the faux meat sector is going back to basics in 2024, introducing more plants and less lab-made proteins. Protein-forward food products made from fruits and veggies are replacing overly processed mock meats, but this isn’t the “rabbit food” that carnivores often criticize. In fact, Valley restaurants are using plants to recreate everything from tuna sandwiches to machaca taquitos that please the eyes and the palate – and the gut, immune system, heart and more.
“Sashimi”
Tabé-Mono Sushi & Shabu
The vegan menus at many sushi joints typically consist of lackluster avocado rolls and limp vegetable tempura. Not so at this unassuming South Phoenix spot, where inspired approximations of popcorn shrimp and spicy tuna rolls beckon non-meat eaters. Perhaps its most whimsical vegan item, however, is the “tuna and salmon” sashimi, deftly constructed from cassava root, bell pepper and locust bean. In addition to being chock-full of protein, this faux fish dish contains vitamin C, fiber and antioxidant properties, improving gut health, immune function and collagen production. Strewn with microgreens and fresh avocado, it’s also a stunning feast for the eyes.
4206 E. Chandler Blvd., Phoenix, 480-687-2503, tabemonoaz.com
TunAh Salad Sandwich
Early Bird Vegan
The house-made “tuna” salad from this cozy, colorful vegan café utilizes the same healthy legume that serves as the base for hummus and falafel: chickpeas. High in fiber, protein and healthy fats, chickpeas support heart health and reduce inflammation. The small, sepia-toned antioxidants also contain selenium, a mineral that aids in liver enzyme function and detoxifies the body of certain cancer-causing compounds. While it certainly provides a plethora of benefits for a person’s internal organs, the superfood is also known to boost the body’s outer appearance. Consuming magnesium-rich chickpeas mitigates wrinkles and fine lines and increases the elasticity of the skin. Early Bird chef Krystal Harris mixes her chickpea “tuna” with fresh veggies – onions, carrots and celery – and vegan aioli, meticulously layered atop arugula, pickles and tomatoes and served on toasted ciabatta bread. StarKist who?
Two Valley locations, earlybirdvegan.com
H.O.P’n Creole Cakes
Maya’s Cajun Kitchen
Harvested from the core of palm trees, hearts of palm possess a fleshy consistency that convincingly feigns the tender, juicy texture of certain seafoods. When grilled, hearts of palm take on a soft, smoky profile similar to eggplant or artichoke. From her Southern-influenced food truck, proprietor Maya Bartlett brings a bit of Baton Rouge to Mesa via crispy, from-scratch hearts of palm “crab” cakes drizzled with vegan remoulade. These protein- and fiber-packed fritters are low in fat and high in iron, potassium and zinc. Hearts of palm have also been proven to lower blood pressure and cholesterol levels, and are an excellent source of beta carotene and vitamins K and A, which support hair growth and improve vision.
501 W. Main St., Mesa, mayascajunkitchen.com
“Clam” Chowder
Goji Berry
From a breezy, pocket-size storefront camouflaged among the vibrant shops and restaurants that freckle the Historic Grand Avenue Arts District in Downtown Phoenix, Goji Berry serves a seasonal special inspired by the culture and cuisine of San Francisco’s illustrious Fisherman’s Wharf – sans fish, of course. Packed with meaty, mollusk-like trumpet mushrooms (which possess antiviral properties, help lower cholesterol and contribute to heart health and strengthen bones) and a healthy dose of garlic (includes a slew of vital vitamins and minerals like manganese, vitamin B6, vitamin C, selenium and fiber), sprinkled with fresh chopped parsley and served in a bread bowl, this warming winter elixir is rich in nutrients and flavor.
1325 Grand Ave., Phoenix, 480-876-0850, gojiberryphx.com
Jackfruit Flautas
The Coronado
Like tofu, the flesh of unripe jackfruit has a neutral taste that easily absorbs the spices in which it cooks. The tropical tree fruit’s firm, fibrous texture also makes it a persuasive dupe for pulled pork or shredded beef. The Coronado near Downtown’s Roosevelt Row uses young jackfruit to create its house “machaca” and rolls it into flautas served with black beans, avocado crema and purple cabbage curtido. Jackfruit contains an array of nutrients, including fiber, vitamins A, B and C, calcium, potassium, iron, zinc and folic acid, as well as more than double the amount of protein found in other fruits.
2245 N. 12th St., Phoenix, 602-767-8133, thecoronadophx.com
