Dining Review: Seven

Craig OuthierMay 10, 2024
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Even if you’re just popping in for a fairly decent crispy cod sandwich at lunch, evidence of this Riot Hospitality concept’s double life as a nighttime bottle-service rooster show is all around.

By Craig Outhier | Photo: Emery Davis

Opened: March 2024

Even if you’re just popping in for a fairly decent crispy cod sandwich ($19) at lunch, evidence of this Riot Hospitality concept’s double life as a nighttime bottle-service rooster show is all around. For example: I can’t remember the last time I had to present a credit card to “keep a tab open” after ordering a side salad. But no matter. Located near the seventh-story pool deck at the new Caesars Republic Scottsdale, Seven offers terrific 180-degree views of Downtown and Camelback Mountain, and mildly elevated bar food that won’t make you regret the effort to get there. Despite sodium levels to rival the Dead Sea, charred-onion-Gruyère dip ($16) is hard to stop eating with crispy, house-made potato chips. Served on a toasted brioche bun layered with a tangy, almond-studded slaw, the aforementioned fried fish sammie proves the best bite of my two visits, notwithstanding a succulent French-cut brined chicken breast ($34) served on butter-poached leeks, its skin toasted and fussily reattached for extra texture. The only disappointment: pepper-crusted steak frites ($48) that just didn’t pop alongside a bland sherry dipping sauce (and suffers by comparison to the pitch-perfect rendition at Sam Fox’s Le Âme). Incidentally, the service – delivered by a uniformly young, female crew – was energetic and professional, even if half of them were inexplicably wearing bikinis. It’s always bottle-service time somewhere.

Wild Card: Drop in at “golden hour” (3-6 p.m.) for $10 passion fruit margaritas and $5 carne asada street tacos.
4747 N. Goldwater Blvd., 480-903-4747, caesars.com