In this special anniversary edition of BOV Taste Test, we revisit chicken wings, those gnawable sports bar standards that headlined our first competition back in 2014. To evaluate today’s top wings, we immediately thought of Bally Sports Arizona personality Jody Jackson, correctly surmising that the longtime D-backs pregame host had feasted on more than a few specimens traveling the country’s MLB stadiums. Democratically filling the brackets with both large-chain favorites and scrappy independents, we assembled a true All-Star roster, and Jackson happily stepped up to the plate.
When & Where: Friday, May 26, at the PHOENIX magazine office. Judging commenced at 1:56 p.m.
Tasting Rules: Eight versions of chicken wings, each ordered with Buffalo or “regular” sauce, with a medium heat level if given an option. Tasting was blind.
No. 1
D-Mac & Wings
Leading off: little-known Mesa soul food joint D-Mac. And Jackson is impressed. “Mmm, this is really good,” she says, attacking a plump drumette. “Zesty, but not too spicy.” facebook.com/dmacwings
No. 2
Ketts Place
The Glendale sports bar mainstay also wows the Florida native. “The chicken is really good, crunchy. Maybe more vinegar [in the sauce],” she says. kettsplace.com
No. 3
ATL Wings
Now with 15 locations, the Valley wings giant immediately captivates Jackson with the deep brown color and crispy-looking appearance of its wings. She likes the payoff, too. “There’s a little kick at the end.” atlwings.com
No. 4
Moto
Batter up! Likening the thickly breaded wing to a “cutlet,” Jackson raves over the North-Central izakaya’s chicken quality (“my favorite so far”) and spare, balanced spice profile. mrmotorising.com
No. 5
Valley Wings
“Pork chop!” Jackson exclaims upon beholding a cudgel-like drumette from the three-location wingery. Her eyes light up with the first bite. “Smokiness and citrus. Or cinnamon? There’s a lot of layers here.” valleywingsonline.com
No. 6
BKD’s Backyard Joint
The Chandler sports bar barrels up on Jackson’s taste buds. “Mmm, OK. This one is more biscuit-like, with a buttery flavor, like something baking in the oven,” she says, lauding the crisp batter. bkdsbackyard.com
No. 7
Booty’s Wings, Burgers & Beer
“Already I see pepper,” Jackson says, espying appealing flecks of spice on the drumette. But she doesn’t necessarily taste them. “The chicken is good. I think I’d like it with a little more flavor.” bootyswings.com
No. 8
Oregano’s
Massive and multi-limbed, the pizza-chain wing looks like a different breed altogether. “It’s wild and wacky… it has geography to it,” Jackson marvels, later expressing bemusement with its “oddly sweet” flavor. oreganos.com
Quarterfinal Winners
D-Mac
From its “impressive, meaty appearance” to its nuanced spice rub, the D-Mac wing glides around the bases, edging out Ketts. “The sauce was good, but not as flavorful, not as bold,” Jackson says.
ATL Wings
“Tough call,” Jackson says, ultimately siding with ATL – though she qualifies her choice by saying that “the [Moto] wings would probably make the better full meal, with the batter.”
Valley Wings
“Why did you have to put these two in the first round?” Jackson asks. Ultimately, she makes a bang-bang call in favor of the more layered VW bite. “Cayenne, cardamom, pepper,” she says. “It’s like wine tasting.”
Booty’s
Jackson taps the West Valley wings favorite – which won the “festival favorite” award at the 2021 National Buffalo Wings Festival in Buffalo, New York – to move on to the next round.
Semifinal Winners
D-Mac
Jackson’s second bite of the Mesa wing is even more satisfying than the first “It’s a five-tool outfielder,” she says. “Moist and juicy. Crunchy. I can’t find a hole in its swing.” Meanwhile, ATL “is like a slider that breaks too early… not enough bite.”
Valley Wings
Offered a fresh VW drummette, Jackson marvels at the flecks of “herb and parsley” baked into the crunchy batter, and once again goes gaga over the complex flavoring, which she deems superior to the “more mild” Booty’s wing.
Final Champion
Valley Wings
In an agonizing mental split decision, Jackson bestows her ultimate endorsement on Valley Wings. “I love the fact it’s a little different… if you like orange peel and spice, this one’s for you.” Meanwhile, upstart D-Mac left a lasting impression. “It’s more traditional, but a total crowd-pleaser… an Aaron Judge, out-of-park job.” Now hit the showers, Jackson. Or at least a Handi Wipe.
