Costumed servers and clever concepts only tell half the story at this food-forward Scottsdale pseudo-speakeasy.
Sometimes first impressions can be deceiving. On my initial visit to the Second Story Liquor Bar, I pegged the restaurant as a tad gimmicky – the servers are dressed in Mad Men-era lace and pearls, the menu reads like a four-act play divided into intro, prologue, plot and finale, and the place has the feel of a speakeasy. Even the Second Story name is a contraption, a double entendre to describe both the upstairs location and the culinary backstory.
It all struck me as too-clever-by-half. Then I got a taste of the exceptional fare and service, and all was forgiven. Nothing wrong with a little high-concept horseplay when there’s substance driving it.
Perched atop the Old Town Gelato Spot, the restaurant was created by Gelato Spot owner Tommy Plato, who has staffed the kitchen and bar with an all-star cast: executive chef Josh Bracher, previously at Posh; and cocktail wizard John Christie, formerly of Old Town Whiskey. Decorated in dark tones with leather booths, candlelit wooden tables and a stunning chandelier, the story-themed eatery serves a cocktail menu arranged by eras. I tried the Philadelphia Fish House punch ($10), an interesting and tasty mix of Appleton rum, brandy, lemon juice, tea and water. On another visit, I sipped a gin fizz ($12) – a bit heavy on the simple syrup and too sweet to finish. The bar also features more than 80 whiskeys and plans to stock at least 100.
My dining excursion started with the ahi poke Asian chopped salad ($18), a mélange of 24 ingredients, including tuna, cashews, fried wasabi chickpeas and mango in a light wash of honey-ginger vinaigrette. It’s served with butter lettuce leaves, so you can wrap it up or spear it with a fork. Either way, the multi-element salad grabs your attention and challenges your taste buds.
An excellent “prologue” choice is the mushroom flatbread ($14), a generously sized slab of naan made with yogurt and topped with fontina cheese sauce, shiitake and oyster mushrooms, caramelized onions and truffle oil. The crust had a rich, cake-like quality, rendering the dish completely sinful, but not to be missed. Moving on to the “finale” course, I spied the 6-ounce filet mignon ($28) served in cutlets with potato pavé – a creamy mound of thinly pared potatoes with a crispy crust. The buttery filet also shares the plate with vanilla-glazed corn, grilled carrots and carrot frites dusted with cinnamon and sugar, which added just the right amount of sweet crunch to the meaty dish.
I’d be remiss not to mention Second Story’s epic happy hour and late night menu, best enjoyed on the restaurant’s wraparound patio overlooking Scottsdale Road. The caprese burger ($13), loaded with lemon garlic aioli, fried mozzarella, balsamic onions, Bibb lettuce, tomato and basil, hits the spot. And try the lobster corn dog ($6), an incongruent but mouthwatering combo of tempura-battered lobster tail with remoulade dipping sauce – definitely not your state fair corn dog.
By the time you read this, Second Story will have debuted a new menu – part of Plato’s vision of an evolving storyline. Since everything Bracher has presented so far deserves a standing ovation, we can only look forward to the next episode.
DETAILS
Second Story Liquor Bar
Cuisine: Contemporary American
Contact: 4166 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, 480-945-5555,
secondstoryliquorbar.com
Hours: 4-11 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday; 4 p.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday; 4-11 p.m. Sunday. Happy hour: 4-6 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday; late night menu: 10 p.m.-close Wednesday-Sunday.
Highlights: Asian chopped salad ($18); filet mignon ($28); lobster corn dog ($6); caprese burger ($13)
