“Luckys is not the new chic RoRo dive bar,” the man behind the bar says as he sets down a couple coasters and a bottle of hand sanitizer. He also tells me that mimosas and bloody Marys are “breakfast drinks” and should not be consumed at 6 p.m. on a Thursday, which happens to be when I pay my first visit to Lucky’s. He then proceeds to offer me a mimosa-flavored jello shot. Who am...