Cork is kaput, but its less fussy East Valley successor also knows the importance of fine cuisine and decadent desserts.
The collective heart of Phoenix Metro’s food-savvy population sank when Chef Brian Peterson and pastry chef Danielle Morris shuttered Cork in early July. After all, the upscale eatery was one of only two East Valley restaurants to receive an AAA Four Diamond rating or better in 2014. (Eight-time Five Diamond honoree Kai was the other.) Even so, Peterson and Morris scrapped Cork’s white linens – maybe Durant’s will take them? – to embrace the growing trend of fun, upscale casual dining.
Two weeks after Cork’s closing, Earnest was resurrected in the same storefront. The renovated corner space is relaxing and intimate, with slate-colored walls and warm wood tones complemented by butter yellow floral curtains. Dim lighting and dinner-only service boost its romance quotient, though Earnest is more apropos for a first date than its fancy special-occasion predecessor.
The menu here is scaled down, the prices a bit less steep than Cork, and the wine focus shifted to craft brews. But Earnest lives up to its name. Peterson’s scrumptious, meat-heavy assortment of revved-up comfort classics equals seriously good eating. Servers offer helpful menu suggestions and pairings, and managers check in to make sure guests love every bite.
Most of Peterson’s dishes inspire instant affection. A few of the original menu highlights carry over, including banana cream pie and the O.G. Salad – jokingly dubbed the “Original Gangsta” – with bleu cheese and caramel popcorn. (Tasty and whimsical, but of the salads, I prefer the more traditional chopped, $9). Crisp spinach and salty corn nuts contrast with seasonal veggies such as broccoli and summer squash for a light yet satisfying starter that doesn’t rely on zesty vinaigrette to shine.
The creamy, mayo-heavy piped filling of deviled eggs was enjoyable ($7), though Peterson might’ve swapped the orthodox paprika for a more intriguing spice. Sadly, savory monkey bread ($7) isn’t the fluffy, pull-apart rolls you’d anticipate. The thick white loaf with its subtle garlic flavor and heavy dose of cheese is enjoyable, but more background accompaniment than standout.
If you’re going to splurge for a decadent starter, might as well opt for Earnest’s tasty macaroni and cheese ($13). Aged cheddar melds with thick, savory Schreiner’s bacon chunks for a warm, velvety dish that soothes the spirits. The addition of mushrooms grounds the pasta with down-to-earth flavor, suitable for adult palates. Meatballs ($12) – a staple of every Italian mama’s mental recipe book – feature mild ground lamb dotted with feta and served in a fresh, clean-tasting tomato sauce, while kid-repelling Brussels sprouts ($7) prove addictive with the addition of spicy capers and tangy lemon dressing. Another success is Peterson’s chickpea appetizer ($7), a classy version of Indian chana dal with chewy boar bacon.
Wild game also appears in Earnest’s entrée selections, with juicy, fork-tender buffalo brisket ($24) and braised boar risotto ($21) making for intriguing mains. I liked the strands of juicy boar meat in the risotto, but the dark, gamey flavor barely registered amid the creamy texture and potent aged parmesan of the risotto itself. It’s still a toothsome dish, boosted by the earthy tang and woody squish of assorted mushrooms.
Cider-braised pot roast ($19) proved juicier and more palatable than anything that emerged from my mom’s Crock-Pot, and pork “ham” chops ($22) won over my dining companions with perfectly cooked swine bathed in sweet cinnamon apples. The chops are a visual treat: thick, beautifully browned bone-in chops cradled in morsels of spiced sausage that burst in my mouth. Three sauces are used in the dish, including creamy gravy of the accompanying sausage and potato casserole, yet Peterson’s masterful hand ensures they work together rather than compete for attention.
Pastry chefs can be treated as second-class citizens in the culinary industry, but most of Morris’ desserts are blue ribbon-worthy. Banana cream pie ($10) surprised with a thick, creamy pudding round that smacked of real fruit – a welcome departure from the gelatinous banana “flavored” filling found in most restaurant versions. Chocolate graham crust adds extra depth, and the lightly flamed layer of meringue is so fluffy and rich it mimics house-made marshmallow. The only dessert we didn’t go gaga over was cinnamon bread pudding ($10), which had a mushy texture that couldn’t compare to the heavenly peanut butter crème brûlée ($8) with jellied berry squares. This child-friendly twist on the dessert standard is so sinfully velvety and delicious that all memories of mom’s famous crustless sandwiches are instantly wiped from memory.
Earnest effort aside, not even an $80,000 facelift can erase the memories of the highly lauded Cork. But that’s not a bad thing. Though its successor sports casual seating and a more approachable menu, Cork’s essence remains in the floor-to-ceiling wine wall, stellar service and delicately spiced entrées.
Earnest is exactly what Peterson intended it to be: a laid-back American restaurant that’s as serious about good food as a Four Diamond eatery, yet fun enough for everyday eating. White linen be damned.
DETAILS
Earnest
Cuisine: American
Contact: 4991 S. Alma School Rd., Chandler, 480-883-3773, earnestrestaurant.com
Hours: 5-9 p.m. Tu-Th; 5-10 p.m. F-Sa; happy hour 5-6:30 p.m. Tu-F
Highlights: Mac and cheese ($13); lamb meatballs ($12); fried Brussels sprouts ($7); fried chickpeas ($7); buffalo brisket ($24); braised boar risotto ($21); cider-braised pot roast ($19); pork “ham” chops ($22); banana cream pie ($10); peanut butter crème brûlée ($8)
