Planting a vineyard involves a great deal of work, from establishing the water source to developing the irrigation and trellis infrastructure. There’s also the small matter of deciding what to plant. When my team at Los Milics Vineyards was making these important decisions three years ago, we reached out to local winemakers to find out what would do well in our part of the world.
Graciano made the cut. Native to the Rioja and Navarre regions of northern Spain, it’s also known as Tinta Miúda in Portugal and Morrastel in France. In La Rioja, Graciano is added to Tempranillo to add roundness, structure and freshness. In California, famous winemaker Manfred Krankl of Sine Qua Non makes “Third Twin,” a brambly red wine of tremendous gravitas mostly out of Graciano. I should mention, to get this wine, you must get on the wait list to the wait list.
Not in Arizona! Los Milics has 2 acres planted at Jenny’s Vineyard in Elfrida, about 60 miles east of my estate vineyard in Sonoita. It is late-budding and mildew-resistant. I refer to Graciano as the Volvo of grapes: It’s vigorous, low-maintenance and reliable. In the cellar, Graciano yields perfumed wines with aromas of cassis, mulberry and menthol. Upon barrel selection, aromas of cedar and even tobacco come through.
Visually, the wine is dark and inky, but the tannin structure won’t rip the enamel off your teeth. Besides Tannat, Graciano yields perhaps the most robust and concentrated wine I’ve had in Arizona. Look for Kent Callaghan’s expression or our Los Milics “Mo’s,” which is 100 percent Graciano. But first, go get yourself a dry-aged ribeye to go with this great alternative to Merlot or Cabernet.
Los Milic “Mo’s”
losmilicsvineyards.com
