Restaurant Progress

Culinary wunderkind TJ Culp is the brains behind this small, charming and ultra-personal restaurant in Melrose, where the short seasonal menu changes every four to six weeks, but you might find comfort food mind-blowers like airy ricotta gnocchi with moist bits of chicken thigh and fresh peas, all bathed in a rich buttery sauce deepened with chicken liver and buckwheat froth, the top strewn with crispy crumbs. Great cocktails, too.