Today: New Orleans. Tomorrow: Who knows? The theme is the thing at this buzzy Scottsdale speakeasy.
Put on by some of the most notable names in the Valley’s bar and restaurant scene, Counter Intuitive is a New Orleans juke joint by way of Old Town Scottsdale, an inventive tribute to the tastes and tipples of The Big Easy.
At least, it is for now. With a theme that will change several times a year, the lounge – which opened this past February in the Stetson Drive storefront formerly occupied by the relocated FnB – is culinary theater like the Valley has never seen, the kind of buzzy, high-concept production Scottsdale’s nightlife scene has always needed.
Hotly anticipated since 2013, when the project was first announced, Counter Intuitive brings together one of the city’s most prolific restaurateurs, Peter Kasperski of Cowboy Ciao and Kazimierz World Wine Bar, with two of its premier mixologists, Micah Olson of Crudo and Jason Asher of Jade Bar. It also has mystique. With limited operating hours of 9 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, and conspicuous absence from social media, no star-studded establishment has ever been so elusive to plugged-in food and drink fans.
We still managed to locate the place, walking past the adjacent Cowboy Ciao and entering a softly glowing cocktail lounge with painted brick walls and exposed wood slats on the ceiling. Alive with the sounds of New Orleans jazz so loud you could swear the band was hiding out behind the bar, you get the feeling you’ve just stepped into a speakeasy off Bourbon Street – even before the Sazerac makes an appearance.
And it’s the cocktails we’ve come here for, disarmingly good nods to NOLA properly put together with things like St. George NOLA Coffee Liqueur, Marie Brizard Parfait Amour and Sazerac Rye, but with unique and refreshing twists. The classic pisco sour is invigorated with snap pea-infused pisco and watermelon syrup; the rye and cognac-based Vieux Carré is smooth and boozy; and the Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Cocktail is deeply flavored with a taste like a perfect autumn day. It’s an indelible homage to the New Orleans tavern hailed as the oldest bar in the U.S.
Along with the cocktails, Counter Intuitive also makes a splendid spot to stop for late-night bites. From Garrison Whiting, former sous chef at Cowboy Ciao, the dishes, like the drinks, riff on New Orleans’ staples in spectacular style. There’s an oyster po’ boy slathered with lemon-caper remoulade and so loaded with hunks of crisp-fried bivalves that a knife and fork is required; a sturdy muffuletta layered with cheese, cured meats and a spicy olive salad between griddled slices of ciabatta; and dreamy, delicate shrimp remoulade deviled eggs sprinkled with bits of bacon. The gumbo, wonderfully fragrant and vibrant with pepper and spices, is easily the best dish on the menu, especially with the option of rock shrimp and topping of a single prawn.
Country Velador, Cowboy Ciao’s pastry chef, has a passion for savory and sweet flavor combinations cleverly converted into classic culinary dishes. You’ll find one of her creations here in the form of beignets, puffy fried fritters laced with bacon and served alongside a chocolate-based dipping sauce.
Like the name of the restaurant, the desire to indulge here comes naturally.
DETAILS
Counter Intuitive
Cuisine: New Orleans-themed cocktails and late-night bites
Contact: 7133 E. Stetson Dr., Scottsdale
Hours: 9 p.m.-2 a.m F-Sa
Highlights: Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Cocktail ($9); Vieux Carré ($10); gumbo ($6); oyster po’ boy ($12); muffuletta ($10); shrimp remoulade deviled egg ($2)
