Besieged by admirers since its debut, this breakfast-lunch oasis in Midtown heroically lives up to the hype.
by Nikki Buchanan | Photography by Melissa Valladares
When it opened in December, Sophia’s made a tsunami-size splash that never abated, so a word to the wise – arrive at this charming Midtown fast-casual before 11 a.m. or plan to stand in a line of around 20 people that frequently snakes out the door.
What’s all the fuss about? For starters, the Mid-Century Modern space is like no other. Its space-age exterior – all glass, metal tubes and arches – gives way to an open, airy interior with a faintly feminine aspect, a place with plants and sunshine and sparkly surfaces. It’s the handiwork of construction mogul Dave Chamberlin and his chef-brother Aaron Chamberlin, the talent behind the late St. Francis and Phoenix Public Market.
Together, the duo has created a morning-to-midday hangout beloved for its simple, beautifully presented food made with local ingredients. Naturally, coffee drinks and baked goods (the latter courtesy of James Beard Award semifinalist Mark Chacón) abound. Think sugar-sprinkled morning buns, a latticed ham and cheese croissant perfumed with rosemary and a pecan-studded sticky bun that is, indeed, gloriously sticky. The Harlow’s smoothie – akin to a coffee-tinged chocolate shake – is boosted with cocoa nibs, banana, almond butter and dates. It’s big-time yum.
Breakfast options include an egg sandwich of tender milk bread slathered with spicy mayo, then stuffed with soft-scrambled egg, bacon, avocado and melted cheddar. A side of tater tots, ultra-crispy and drizzled with spicy mayo, are worlds better than your average tots. Meanwhile, breakfast fried rice, a savory mix of bacon, cauliflower, broccoli, shiitake mushrooms and soy glaze, topped with a fried egg and fresh avocado, prompts a “Where’ve you been all my life?” moment.
For lunch, consider an excellent chicken sandwich (ultra-crispy chicken cutlet, Comté cheese, dill honey, tomato and slaw on a buttermilk bun) or a rich, savory burger that rocks for its French onion soup vibe. It comes with waffle fries that are wonderfully crisp, one of the many small details that matter.
Call it breakfast or dessert, but don’t miss the instantly iconic French toast tower, layered with dulce de leche, set in a puddle of maple syrup and finished with a perfect square of French butter. One bite and that line will be out of mind.
Sophia’s
Cuisine: American
Contact: 336 E. Thomas Rd., Phoenix, 602-461-8407, sophiasbrunch.com
Hours: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. daily
Highlights: Breakfast fried rice ($18); French toast ($15); Harlow’s smoothie ($8); honey-dill chicken sando ($16); Sophia’s burger ($18)
