This new Modern Mediterranean offering from the Buck & Rider brain trust is more than the sum of its baba ghanoushes.
by Nikki Buchanan | Photography by Tim Chow
Elevated Mediterranean cuisine, offered in upscale settings at price points to match, has been trending in Phoenix for a couple of years now. Look no further than FLINT by Baltaire, Cala and Théa for proof. But, to my mind, the most appealing and accessible specimen thus far is Pinyon, the new coastal Mediterranean restaurant from Adam Strecker of Buck & Rider fame. Overlooking the park at Scottsdale Civic Center, it’s a relaxed but polished two-story space with a pan-Mediterranean menu that captures everything from Turkey to Tunisia. Nothing about the concept or menu is groundbreaking, but when the atmosphere is charming, the service is cordial and the food is both on point and affordable, what’s not to love?
Happy hour makes a great first impression, offering smoking deals on wine, cocktails and refreshing spritzes served in oversize goblets. A rotating selection of Middle Eastern dips – served with warm, baked-to-order pita – seem destined to become a Pinyon signature. Both olive oil-drizzled baba ghanoush and labneh, strewn with pomegranate arils, pistachios and the like, are simultaneously airy and luxurious. Lightly breaded and seared feta, topped with cherry tomatoes and drizzled with preserved lemon honey, is so irresistibly salty, sweet, tangy and crunchy, I’ve ordered it twice already.
Another small plate I’ll want again is yellowtail crudo, strewn with sweet-tart gooseberries and accented with faintly spicy, pistachio-studded salsa macha.
As for entrées, loup de mer (European seabass), lightly charred on a custom charcoal grill from Barcelona, is wonderful with heirloom tomatoes, olive oil and fresh herbs. Though gorgeously browned, pan-roasted chicken, jazzed up with a Moroccan marinade and red pepper sauce, has a pleasant, curry-like flavor, it’s nothing memorable.
I also wasn’t blown away by the Ibérico ham small plate. While I love the silky richness of fat-streaked meat, this Spanish classic deserves real pan con tomate – not a deconstructed version served with soupy tomato pulp on the side.
Clever desserts are another matter. Tangy, thick-as-a-brick cheesecake on flaky phyllo and outrageously creamy tiramisu are both over-the-top yet just right.
For light, creative food in a setting that captures the breezy charm of the Mediterranean, Pinyon is nearly perfect.
Pinyon
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Contact: 7363 E. Scottsdale Mall, Scottsdale, 480-863-8990, pinyonrestaurant.com
Hours: M-Th 11 a.m.-10 p.m., F-S
11 a.m.-midnight, Su 10 a.m.-9 p.m.
Highlights: Baba ghanoush ($15); labneh dip ($15); seared feta with tomatoes ($17); yellowtail crudo ($21); Ibérico ham (1/2 oz., $16); loup de mer ($55)
