A monthly look at Arizona wine with Valley dining impresario Pavle Milic.
During my visit this summer, I almost missed the stunning terraced vineyard at Maynard James Keenan’s new oenological mothership just a couple of blocks away from the Old Town Cottonwood main strip – it was camouflaged with white nets to protect against hail and birds. The production facilities for both of MJK’s wine brands – Merkin Vineyards and Caduceus Cellars – are perched atop the hill, along with a restaurant and greenhouse, offering stunning 360-degree views of the Verde Valley. The vineyard, planted with Graciano, Tempranillo and Garnacha, wraps around the hill like a sentinel. Aptly, the whole complex is known as the Merkin Vineyards Hilltop Winery & Trattoria.
As a winemaker, I was particularly impressed by the modern winemaking facility. For example, the grape landing dock is situated on a top level so that the incoming fruit can begin its journey via gravity. Inside a sleek shipping container cantilevered over an amazing view of the Verde Valley, where private library tastings take place, we were greeted with pét-nat bubbles paired with a Southwestern-style tapas omakase menu authored by James Beard-nominated chef Noriyuki “Nori” Sugie, who honed his craft in places like Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago.
We then headed over to the trattoria for some prickly-pear-infused house-made pasta with pancetta-mascarpone cream sauce, dusted with beet powder. Fancy mac and cheese, in other words. My assistant winemaker at Los Milics Vineyards, Oswaldo Medina, vacuumed up the entire dish without sharing, stating, “This was amazing.”
MJK’s wines are always incredibly food-friendly – restrained, balanced, laser-focused, and perfect for pairing. There’s so much more to tell you, but with only 300 words, I’ll just say: Go. Trust me.
Merkin Vineyards Hilltop Winery & Trattoria
770 N. Verde Heights Dr., Cottonwood
928-639-1001, merkintrattoria.com
