Opened: August 2023
Come for the dumplings, stay for the Taiwanese specialties – that’s my slogan for this casual, modern Chinese restaurant offering tasty versions of Taiwan’s greatest hits. To be clear, the Uncle turns out everything from Sichuan mapo tofu to Japanese ramen and very American orange chicken, but if Taiwanese is your bliss, here’s a solid West Valley outlet. I, for one, could easily put away a dozen scallion pancakes, thin and ultra-crisp at the edges ($5.99). Kudos also to beef noodle soup, brimming with hunks of tender beef, springy house-made noodles and bok choy, afloat in aromatic broth ($14.99). Taiwanese three-cup chicken, strewn with garlic cloves and fresh basil, glistens in a glaze of soy sauce, sesame oil and rice wine ($16.99). It’s rich and umami-packed. And while I’ve probably had better gua bao – a trio of fluffy steamed buns stuffed with fat-rimmed planks of five spice-scented pork belly, strewn with crushed peanuts and cilantro ($9.99) – they’re still ridiculously easy to put away.
The same can be said of popcorn chicken, dusted with five spice and swathed in a delicate, tempura-like shell ($9.99).
Wild Card: Don’t miss dim sum treats such as sesame balls ($7.99) and steamed custard buns ($9.99).
5626 W. Bell Rd., Glendale,
602-675-3838, unclepandadumpling.com
