Tostada de Pescado | Photo by Nikki Buchanan
I’ve never actually counted, but I’m going to hazard a guess that metro Phoenix has more Mexican seafood restaurants than American-style seafood restaurants, which is a plus if you’re more interested in great, reasonably priced seafood than, say, la-di-da décor. El Heroico Guaymas, which opened in Peoria last December, is the newest of these no-frills, no-BS spots and based on a terrific lunch I had there recently, I’d say it’s destined for success.
It’s a cool little space — part restaurant, part pescaderia (seafood market) — offering fresh fish and other seafood, much of it pulled from the Sea of Cortez (aka Gulf of California). The case contains snapper, shark, marlin, various kinds of crab, lobster tail, scallops and shrimp, while a series of shelves near the front door feature Clamato, V8, packaged tostadas and dozens of hot sauce brands to make your own seafood cocktails at home. The TV on one wall features a Netflix show on marine life, while the other (the one everybody watches) runs music videos of Latin hip-hop artists.
Interior of El Heroico | Photo by Nikki Buchanan
Co-owners Horacio Lomeli (who also manages the place) and Fidel Rocha are both from Guaymas, the beach town that sits about five hours south of Rocky Point, and it’s the seafood of their hometown they feature here, along with a handful of other Sonoran specialties. My friend and I start at the only logical place to begin — Taco Miramar, served on a warm, supple corn tortilla that falls apart at the slightest provocation. No matter. It’s delicious, all of it — the lightly battered and fried nuggets of shrimp, the mayonnaise-y slaw and squirt of lime ($2.49). Also excellent — Taco Guaymas containing nubbins of shrimp and a pico de gallo of tomato, onion and cilantro ($2.99). My favorite to date, however, may be the tostada de pescado, a crispy corn tortilla piled high with tart acidulated fish, cucumber, onion and tomato, topped with avocado and a few glistening drops of dark umami-loaded salsa negra ($2.49). How could this yummy thing be so cheap? OK, it’s true that I could two or three of them, but still . . .
The botanas/appetizer section offers a few dishes you don’t see every day, including shrimp and cream cheese stuffed empanadas, crisp-fried crescents of dough encasing shrimp and melting cream cheese. Dunked in seriously spicy salsa verde, all six of them are gone in minutes. My friend and I mow through momias (Spanish for “mummies”) even quicker. This specialty of Guaymas is essentially butterflied shrimp and cream cheese, both snugly wrapped in bacon and cooked until the outsides are golden-brown, the insides molten. Served with a robust (but only slightly spicy) salsa, they offer saltiness and sweetness, creaminess and crunch. I adore them.
And then comes fabulous Pescado Serandeado (or Zarandeado), a whole fish specialty served all along Mexico’s Pacific coast. We pick out our own fish from the case (snapper weighing in at just over a pound at $9.99 per pound). The kitchen slathers the fish with a mayo- and mustard-based sauce, adding a few spices, throwing it on a grill and cooking it until it’s crisp and slightly blackened here and there. Topped with sautéed onion and bell pepper, sided with pico de gallo (absolutely loaded with cilantro) and sided with two limes, it’s a luscious thing that we pick at until every edible morsel is gone.
Pescado Serandeado | Photo by Nikki Buchanan
At this point, we are beyond stuffed, all for about $65, including tip. I could kick myself for skipping the Burro Percheron, a monster burrito stuffed with carne asada, avocado and tomato (no rice, no beans). According to Horacio, it’s classic late-night Sonoran street food. Oh well, I can add this to my long list of reasons to come back.
6750 W. Peoria Ave, Suite 121, Peoria, 623-248-1734, heroicoguaymasrestaurant.com
