From gorgeous cross-country mountain biking in Flagstaff to Locomotive adventure in Williams, Arizona is up to its axels in freewheeling fun.
Bonus: Five delectable drives for the fall!
BIKING IN AZ
For two-wheel touring, few places are as diverse as Arizona. We have Martian-esque mountain biking, one of the country’s top 10 cycling cities, and miles of sweet, pine-shaded single-track. Whether you want to foray into fat-tire fun or pedal from museum to cafe, this guide will help you get from sofa to saddle to scenery.
Arizona Mountain Biking:
Get Started
Hard to believe, but 30 years ago, mountain biking was barely even a “thing.” Then someone got the bright idea to equip a standard road bike with larger, thicker tires and jolt-reducing shock absorbers, and – voila! – a new pastime was born. One that provides the intoxicating sensation of gliding over rocks, branches and scrub like a Lycra-attired angel.
Pro Tips
“Find a shop you trust that will get you started with exactly
the right gear you need,” says Adam Cornette of Flag Bike Revolution in Flagstaff. “That will really help ease the
trepidation that comes along with starting a new sport.”
“Don’t be scared to demo a couple bikes in your local bike shop,” says Kate Phelan of Soul Ride in Prescott.
Make sure the staff fits your bike to your body.
The Right Fit:
Road and mountain bike frames are measured from the top of the seat tube to the center of the bottom bracket. For example, a 6-foot-2 rider would be fitted with a 21” frame, allowing him to sit comfortably without hunching forward. Mountain bikes (pictured, left) typically require a frame 4 to 5 inches smaller than a road bike.
“Be able to repair a broken chain, and be able to repair a flat,” says Dennis Leiker of Tucson-based Fair Wheel Bikes. Most bike shops offer classes.
“Take beginner lessons,” Phelan advises. “It’s really important for gaining those fundamental skills… When you feel confident and feel like you can keep yourself safe, you’ll have so much more fun.”
Start off slow, says Jake Plapp of Absolute Bikes, which has shops in Sedona and Flagstaff. “Do frequent rides, but not long rides. Stay consistent.”
Bring the right gear: Helmet, gloves, spare tube, tire lever, pump or CO2 cartridge, and twice as much water and food as you think you’ll need.
Top 5 Arizona Bike Trails for Beginners
Find your biking legs at these novice-appropriate mountain biking hotspots.
#1 Bell Rock Pathway, Sedona
Sedona rivals Moab as a mountain biking mother lode, and it didn’t earn that rep with a bunch of kiddie trails. This 3.6-miler is the exception. Smooth, packed-dirt double-track is ideal for shaking off those figurative training wheels while rewarding yourself with up-close views of Mars-colored monoliths. “It’s the easiest trail in Sedona,” says Jake Plapp of Absolute Bikes. “There’s a few hills, so it’s not boring, but it’s one of the gentler rides we have, and I would say it’s the most scenic.”
Rental: Absolute Bikes, 6101 Hwy. 179, 928-284-1242, absolutebikes.net
Trailhead: On the east side of Hwy. 179, just north of the Village of Oak Creek.
#2 Fantasy Island, Tucson
Think of this circulation system of single-track as an amusement park for cyclists. On the north side, adrenaline junkies blaze through technical turns. On the southern Bunny Loop, newbies start slow on the cholla- and creosote-studded trail but soon speed along with smiles like a 6-year-old on a roller coaster. “It’s the perfect place to go mountain biking for the first time,” says Dennis Leiker, manager of Fair Wheel Bikes. “You could take kids on it.”
Rental: Fair Wheel Bikes, 1110 E. Sixth St., 520-623-3761, fairwheelbikes.com
Trailhead: The Valencia Bunny Loop trailhead is located on the north side of Valencia Road and Frost Drive in southeast Tucson.
#3 Campbell Mesa Loops, Flagstaff
This ponderosa-scented plateau offers all the scenic advantages of mountain trails without the butt-kicking climbs and gonzo descents. Paths flatline through wildflowers and grassy glades backdropped by cloud-kissing peaks. “It’s not very technical, and there’s a good network of trails,” Flag Bike Revolution owner Adam Cornette says. “We send a lot of people out there.”
Rental: Flag Bike Revolution, 3 S. Mikes Pike St., 928-774-3042, flagbikerev.com
Trailhead: From I-40 in east Flagstaff, exit on Country Club and go 1 mile to Old Walnut Road. Turn left and drive to the Campbell Mesa Recreation Access sign.
#4 Goldwater Lakes Trail 396, Prescott
On this 9-mile loop, smooth single-track flows like a breeze through pine forest, then swirls around Goldwater Lake and Lower Goldwater Lake. Though it’s often categorized as moderate, it’s suitable for novices, Kate Phelan of Soul Ride says. “You get a real flair for Prescott and Prescott riding. It’s just an extraordinary trail, and if at any point it’s a little too difficult, you can get out and walk.”
Rental: Soul Ride, 409 W. Goodwin St., 928-642-8727, soulride.bike
Trailhead: From Prescott, go south on Hwy. 89 about 2.5 miles to the White Spar Campground. The trail starts at the gated road near the parking area.
#5 Circle Trail, Prescott
Locals have spent 25 years bringing this 54-mile labor of love to life. Soon, it will circumnavigate Prescott, painting a sublime tableau of forest, chaparral and lakes. Beginning bikers can bite off chunks of the circuit. The 2.5-mile Embry-Riddle section is easy on the wheels and the eyes, with views of Mingus and Granite mountains and Thumb Butte. The 4-mile Sundog section slices through grassland leading to summit vistas of Watson Lake and the Granite Dells.
Trailheads: cityofprescott.net/services/parks/trails/
VERDE VALLEY
Graduate Course: Lime Kiln Loop (above)
Now that you’ve earned your mountain-biking wings, how about something a little more advanced? Starting from the Raptor Trail trailhead near the Blackhawk campground at Dead Horse Ranch State Park in Cottonwood, give the 7-mile Lime Kiln Loop a whirl. It’s a moderate single-track pedal through an arresting limestone wilderness (right) and river valley (opposite page) that rewards riders with a downhill lollipop on the final two miles. azstateparks.itinio.com/deadhorseranch/
URBAN CRUISES
Prefer a cafe crawl to backcountry biking? These downtowns are great to explore on two wheels.
Flagstaff
Combine Flag’s hipster-scholar-outdoors enthusiast character in one multi-personality ride. Rent a bike at Flag Bike Revolution (3 S. Mikes Pike St., 928-774-3042, flagbikerev.com) and tool around historic downtown’s shops and galleries. Pedal down Beaver Street to fuel up with a latte and takeaway at Macy’s (14 S. Beaver St., 928-774-2243, macyscoffee.net), lauded as the best joe in town by no less an authority than local guide book legend Cosmic Ray. Then cruise south through Northern Arizona University’s verdant campus and meander to Lone Tree Road. Turn right at John Wesley Powell Boulevard and cruise to Lake Mary Road.
This bike-laned thoroughfare curves through conifer forests past grassy, boggy Lower Lake Mary and its more aquatic sister, Upper Lake Mary. From here, you can huff along the hills to Mormon Lake or turn back to Flag to hoist a craft beer and local pastrami sammie at the new Historic Barrel + Bottle House (110 S. San Francisco St., 928-707-0900, historicbrewingcompany.com), or slurp the city’s best pork belly udon at SoSoBa (12 E. Route 66, Ste. 104, 928-774-3471, nonstopnoodleshop.com).
Sedona
The main tourist drag in Sedona takes an Orwellian approach to transportation: Four wheels good, two wheels bad. But the folks in the Village of Oak Creek have a two-wheels-better philosophy. On her Village Cross ride, Heather Parris of Self Propelled Tours Sedona (selfpropelledtours.com) guides guests on a T-shaped trek centered on the VOC. “That’s a really good ride to give you a complete taste of everything in that area,” she says.
Caffeinate at Firecreek Coffee (6500 Hwy. 179, 928-284-5282, firecreekcoffee.com) and rent a steed at Absolute Bikes (6101 Hwy. 179, 928-284-1242, absolutebikes.net). Parris and her cyclists sally forth up Highway 179’s bike lane to an outlook with divine views of Cathedral Rock and Chapel of the Holy Cross. If your quads are up to the task, ride to the modernist church. Otherwise, cruise back down the highway and veer right on Verde Valley School Road, which skirts Oak Creek Country Club to the shadow of Castle Rock. Next, head south on the 179 to the Red Rock Ranger Station for unimpeded photo ops of iconic rock formations. Then it’s back north and east on Jacks Canyon Road to Pine Valley, where the bobcats and javelina play. Finish like a Giro d’Italia racer with a carbo-load at Cucina Rustica (7000 Hwy. 179, 928-284-3010, cucinarustica.com).
Bonus: Feeling adventurous? Shoot down State Route 89A to Cottonwood and Cornville. Yes, it’s a 19-mile pedal, but the shoulders are wide and the wine is cool.
Tucson
With more than 1,000 miles of bicycle infrastructure in the metro area, Tucson has earned its status as a Gold-level Bicycle Friendly Community and one of the best cycling towns in the USA. Rent a two-wheeler at Fair Wheel Bikes (1110 E. Sixth St., 520-623-3761, fairwheelbikes.com) and pedal around nearby U of A. Follow the commuters west on Third Street-University Bike Boulevard, then south on Fourth Avenue Bike Boulevard to scout out the Old Pueblo’s answer to Greenwich Village. Feel très Français with brunch at The Coronet (402 E. Ninth St., 520-222-9889, cafecoronet.com), then continue down Fourth Avenue, jog right on Congress and head south on Sixth Avenue. Spin around the Armory Park area’s Queen Anne and Greek Revival homes and browse stylishly curated gift boutique Bon (760 S. Stone Ave., 520-795-2272, bon-boutique.com).
Head west to photograph the turquoise and tangerine buildings of Barrio Viejo. Continue west on Cushing Street, zipping under the I-10, then jogging north on the Santa Cruz River path. Turn back into town on St. Mary’s Road and veer briefly north on Granada to make a pilgrimage to the Bike Church, a step-in structure made of wheels, frames and rims (at Davis/Main Avenue). Delve farther northwest into Barrio Anita to taste Tucson’s best tortillas at Anita Street Market (849 Anita Ave., 520-882-5280).
Go south on Main Avenue to find inspiration at the Tucson Museum of Art (140 N. Main Ave., 520-624-2333, tucsonmuseumofart.org). Next on tap: Pedal east to Reilly Craft Pizza’s beer garden and choose from 40 draft beers, ciders and sours (101 E. Pennington St., 520-882-5550, reillypizza.com).
ATVing
Sometimes you need to go full-throttle badass, while enjoying sublime scenery, of course. Arizona ATV Adventures (800-242-6335, arizonaatvadventures.com) guides guests through west Sedona, and around Florence as you’ve never seen it – with petroglyphs, a Pony Express Depot and a lichen-painted slot canyon.
On a ride with Arizona Offroad Tours near Camp Verde (928-451-1777, myarizonaoffroadtour.com), ATVers roller-coaster along trails with epic views of sage-colored mountains, red rocks and big sky.
Near Tombstone, Apache ATV Tours (520-860-0178, apacheatvtours.com) designs journeys to the boulder-strewn Dragoons, San Rafael Valley’s golden prairies, and the green hills of Gunsight Pass.
Valley Mountain Bike Trails
Known as perhaps the premier large U.S. city for hiking, Phoenix also boasts a jackpot of mountain biking trails – including many suited for novice riders.
Pemberton Loop at McDowell Mountain Regional Park
Two-thirds of this fun 16-mile loop is dedicated single-track, making for a quick and fast ride with serious uphill climb. Hit the trailhead during summer nights for scheduled moonlight rides. Cosmic Ray says: “The ultimate single-track pleasure cruise. Pedal for 10 minutes and you won’t even know you’re in the middle of the city.” maricopa.gov
Dynamite Trail at San Tan Mountain Regional Park
Added to the Maricopa Trail System in 2012 as part of the city’s centennial celebration, Dynamite is a 2.4-mile offshoot of the Goldmine Trail. While generally a slow, gradual climb, tight switchbacks and loose gravel make for a challenging ride. maricopa.gov
Hawes Loop in Mesa
A mostly downhill intermediate track through the Usery Mountains, Hawes satisfies riders’ need for speed. Desert flora and unobstructed scenic views are highlights, so don’t forget to brake for panoramic photo ops. mtbikeaz.com/trail-index/phoenix/hawes-trail-loops/
Deem Hills
Great for a quick nighttime jaunt, Deem Hills Recreation Area’s 9-mile trail system consists of five short, moderate trails. For a challenging workout with a stellar view, hit the steep slopes of the 1.45-mile Ridgeline Trail. phoenix.gov
Desert Classic at South Mountain
Packed at peak times, the 18-mile (round trip) “DC” trail is like a choose-your-own-adventure ride. Stay on the path for a laid-back cruise across washes and desert flatland, or veer off for more technical drops. phoenix.gov
Charles M. Christiansen Trail #100: With an elevation gain of less than a thousand feet, this well-known trek through Phoenix Mountain Preserve (pictured) meanders past Piestewa Peak over relatively flat terrain, ending at a scenic juncture between North Mountain and Shaw Butte. At 10.7 miles one way, allot 4-5 hours to complete the run; longer if taking the connecting trails. phoenix.gov
Valley Cruising Guide
Valley cities have never been more bike-friendly and ready for exploration. Plan your cycling itinerary with these 2-hour, 4-hour and all-day ride suggestions.
Downtown Phoenix
“I feel like anyplace is bike-friendly as long as I can find a place to lock my bike,” says local artist Jen Urso, who hasn’t owned a car in four years. Urso recommends following the light rail route.
2-hour: Start at the light rail station at Camelback Road and Central Avenue. Don’t have a two-wheeler? Rent one at the nearby Grid Bike Share depot (gridbikes.com). Designed so riders can “lock up” the bikes at any one of 39 Grid stations between rides, the system doesn’t charge you when the bike is off the clock. Thus, a one-hour rental ($5) could last you the afternoon (see page 36 for more Grid Bike Share info). Cruise down Central to Lux (4402 N. Central Ave., luxcoffee.com) for coffee and pastries.
4-hour: Cross the street for a quick tour of the pond and greenbelts at Steele Indian School Park. Feeling thirsty and/or peckish? Hit popular Asian gastropub Clever Koi (4263 N. Central Ave., 602-222-3474, thecleverkoi.com) for roasted pork belly steam buns and a gin-and-honey Bee’s Knees cocktail. Continue south along the light rail route. Finish with a stop at Roosevelt Row’s vintage shops. Pick up a lightly-used Springsteen concert T-shirt at Black N’ Blue Vintage (906 N. Fifth St., 602-354-4364).
All-Day: Feel like keeping the party going? Enjoy the Valley’s best tacos at Paz Cantina (1011 N. Third St., pazcantina.com), then pedal west to hit the light rail station at Roosevelt and First Street. (Alternately, continue south on your bike to Civic Space Park for an eyeful of public art.) By bike or train, turn east on Washington and keep your eye out for the 24th Street/Washington station. Just up the street, you’ll find Phoenix Ale Brewery (3002 E. Washington St., phoenixbrew.com) and an icy watermelon ale.
Scottsdale
With 22 miles of smooth pavement winding through four parks in Scottsdale and North Tempe, the Indian Bend Wash Path greenbelt is a popular spot for cyclists and rollerbladers.
2-hour: Pick up the wash trail around Indian Bend Rd.; just south is a nature area worth a quick peek. Grab a morning bite at Goldman’s Deli (6929 N. Hayden Rd., goldmansdeliarizona.com) before continuing through Camelback and Chaparral parks; take a cool ride around the lake at the latter.
4-hour: Follow the greenbelt down to McKellips, where Pig & Pickle gastropub (2922 N. Hayden Rd., pigandpickle.com) serves hungry cyclists po’ boys and patty melts. Continue through El Dorado Pond Park (2311 N. Miller Rd., scottsdaleaz.gov) for rolling green hills and a shade-break, then pedal a half-mile north to McDowell Road. Avid cyclist Regina Jefferies of Rage Cycles recommends biking north on Scottsdale Road, then detouring on Thomas Road for a caffeine and hydration stop at Echo Coffee (2902 N. 68th St., Ste. 135, echocoffee.com)
All-Day: Instead of beelining it back to the greenbelt, tackle Old Town Scottsdale and its menagerie of shops and boutiques. View the masterpieces on display at Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art (7374 E. Second St., smoca.org) and stop at Bespoke Inn (3701 N. Marshall Way, bespokeinn.com), a bike-centric boutique hotel. Have an early dinner at Virtù, located in the hotel and arguably one of Old Town’s top five restaurants. If you have time, check out Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West acrros the street (3830 N. Marshall Way, 480-686-9539, scottsdalemuseumwest.org). Pick up the Arizona Canal Trail at Camelback and Scottsdale roads. This artery leads straight back to Indian Bend.
West Valley to North Phoenix
Nearly 36 miles long, the Arizona Canal Path is one of the city’s longest multi-use paved trails – fast, flat and convenient. Start in the West Valley for an epic two-wheel odyssey.
2-hour: Start the journey at Thunderbird Paseo Park, near Thunderbird and 67th Ave., following the canal to the I-17 junction (623-930-2000, glendaleaz.com). Take a break on the patio at the petite Rick’s Café Metro and grab a turkey croissant or egg sandwich (10000 N. 31st Ave., rickscafemetro.com).
4-hour: Continue along the canal path, diverting at 19th Avenue towards Try Me Bicycle (1514 W. Hatcher Rd., shop.trymebicycleshop.us), where you can peep a potential upgrade or source hard-to-find gears and parts. From there, head east to Seventh Street and ride north to learn about the area’s history and geology at North Mountain Visitor Center (12950 N. Seventh St., northmountainvisitorcenter.org).
All-Day: Stick around the park and traverse the breezy Penny Howe Barrier-Free Nature Trail before heading south to reconnect with the Arizona Canal. Backtrack west to Spoke & Wheel (8525 N. Central Ave., spokeandwheeltavern.com) where two-wheelers score happy hour deals all day. If you’re feeling truly hearty, continue east, past the Biltmore to 40th street, where Chelsea’s Kitchen (5040 N. 4oth St., Phoenix, 602-957-2555, chelseaskitchenaz.com) serves its brand of upscale comfort food on the banks of the canal and offers bike lock-ups. Enjoy your dinner on the patio – and think about having your neighbor pick you up in his truck.
SanTan Valley
(Chandler/Gilbert)
Built atop a former dump site, the 64-acre Paseo Vista Recreation Area (3850 S. McQueen Rd., Chandler, chandleraz.gov) is home to an archery range, disc golf and dog park.
2-hour: Cruise the park’s easy, mile-long trail, stopping to enjoy myriad recreation and scenic opportunities. From here, you can pick up the Consolidated Canal Path north into Chandler, stopping at Tumbleweed Park and taking the paved east side trail or staying on the more rugged west side to keep pace with horseback riders.
4-hour: Take a left onto Chandler Blvd. and continue to Historic Downtown Chandler, stopping for burgers and beer at SanTan Brewery (8 San Marcos Pl., santanbrewing.com). If wine’s more your thing, Vintage 95 Wine Lounge (95 W. Boston St., vintage95.com) is just around the corner.
All-day: Continue northeast along the canal, making a detour east at Elliott Road to the Riparian Preserve at Water Ranch (wildlifeviewingareas.com) where lurk bird walks, educational programs and several miles of trails. Afterward, follow Elliott back to downtown Gilbert, where road-weary warriors can refuel with delectable carne asada burritos at Joyride Taco House (302 N. Gilbert Rd., joyridetacohouse.com) or one of the other, newly-opened restaurants in the buzzing Gilbert food hub.
Tempe
Arizona’s No. 1 bike-friendly city, Tempe is home to on-road bike lanes and a commuter support station.
2-hour: Head to Papago Park for a rollicking 5-mile single-track trek. It’s a bit of a climb, but bikers can stop to enjoy a scenic seat on the red rock outcroppings before heading across Galvin Parkway to Gertrude’s at Desert Botanical Garden (dbg.org) for light refreshments and a walk through native desert plants.
4-hour: From DBG, head north to McDowell Road east. If you’re thirsty, continue to Scottsdale Road and visit Papago Brewing (7107 E. McDowell Rd., 480-425-7439, papagobrewing.com) for an Orange Blossom Wheat. Double back to the Arizona Cross-Cut Canal path, located two blocks west of 68th Street. Ride south until it diverges into a multi-use path, stopping to sit by the water at Evelyn Hallman Park and exploring the Cactus, Loma and Lizard Trail system before making a pit-stop at the Arizona Historical Society Museum (1300 N. College Ave., arizonahistoricalsociety.org).
All-day: Continue south, merging onto Mill Avenue, where it’s a straight shot across the bridge to Tempe Beach Park’s bike paths. If you’re feeling sweaty from putting pedal to metal, divert course to The Bicycle Cellar (200 E. Fifth St., thebicyclecellar.com) for a shower and repairs, then enjoy brews and brats at bike-friendly pub The Handlebar (680 S. Mill Ave., handlebaraz.com). Afterward, take University Dr. west to Priest Rd., which loops north directly back to Papago Park.
Shops
Looking for some gearheads in the know to get you started? Find the two-wheel toy just for you at one of these PM-approved bike shops.
Rage
6411 E. Thomas Rd., Scottsdale
480-968-8116, ragecycles.com
Catering to clientele from BMX pros to first-time cruisers for a quarter-century, this mom-and-pop bike shop literally moved up in the cycling world this summer. Their new home has three times the space of the original beachy South Scottsdale store, leaving more space for Cult and Electra bikes, repairs and in-store activities such as November’s two-day clinic with champion downhill racer Leigh Donovan.
Slippery Pig Bike Shop
4412 N. Central Ave., Phoenix
602-263-5143, slipperypigbikes.com
For a tiny store, Slippery Pig manages to cram in a mountain of cycling’s top names – among them Gary Fisher, Titus and Lemond. Fixies and gearheads come to nab accessories and tune up their gear, and the shop’s 29er specialists are always on hand to help noobs traverse rocky desert terrain in style.
Bike Barn
4112 N. 36th St., Phoenix
602-956-3870, bikebarnaz.com
Though much has changed since this mom-and-pop shop opened in 1957, the neighborhood feel and personalized service remain. Select your ride with the help of body geometry experts, or pick a cute “townie” just for looks. Bike Barn also hosts weekly Sunday road rides of 25-30 miles.
Landis Cyclery
1006 E. Warner Rd., Tempe (and additional locations)
480-730-1081, landiscyclery.com
An East Valley chain with four locations, Landis is the go-to place for serious cyclists and triathletes. The folks here view bicycles as “life-changers,” stocking rides from kiddie-size cruisers to $2,000 Trek cyclocross bikes, and offer free repair estimates and walk-in fixes if your baby gets a flat.
Faster
16414 N. 91st St. #103, Scottsdale
480-970-1300, ride-faster.com
Voted Interbike trade show’s “Best Road Bike Shop in America,” Faster is a one-stop shop for speed demons – complete with cycling wind tunnel. If their tricked-out selection of wheels, gears and bikes from the likes of LOOK and Canadian manufacturer Cervélo don’t sedate after your time in the tunnel, head to the recovery room for a dip in the dual hot/cold therapy pools.
Annual Bike Events
Tour de Fat
Leave it to New Belgium Brewing, creators of Fat Tire amber ale, to invent a sustainability festival centered on the spoke. On October 3, the Tempe event kicks off with a costumed bike parade through the city, followed by a free all-day revel at Tempe Beach Park with brews, bike contests and live music. Register at newbelgium.com.
12 Hours of Fury
A true test of endurance, this annual race challenges riders to complete the most laps in a half-day. Prizes are awarded in categories including male and female solo, duo and quad. This year’s event rolls into McDowell Mountain Regional Park at 10 a.m. on Saturday, November 21. Cost starts at $80; register at 4peaksracing.com.
Biking Yoga
Stretch your hamstrings with weekly 50-minute yoga classes targeted to help cyclists work out sore muscles, offered Mondays at 7 p.m. at TruFit Studios in Fountain Hills (16838 E. Palisades Blvd., Ste. 104, trufitstudios.com).
COSMIC RAY: Lord of the Trails
Flagstaff guide book legend Cosmic Ray celebrates a quarter century of getting folks hooked on hikes and bikes.
“I never see an uptick in sales after one of these articles comes out,” Ray “Cosmic Ray” Brutti jokingly laments as his interviewer flips open a notepad. “But I keep doing ‘em. I guess I just like seeing myself in print.”
For fans of Brutti’s beloved Arizona trail books, including 50 Favorite Hikes: Flagstaff and Sedona and Fat Tire Tales & Trails, this probably doesn’t come as a huge shock. Professionally known as Cosmic Ray, the longtime Flagstaff resident and mountain biking pioneer has been infecting readers with his love of all things trail-related since 1988, when his first self-illustrated, self-published digest debuted on cheap poster stock in high-country bicycle shops. Aside from pricier paper, the Cosmic Ray formula hasn’t changed much in 27 years: hand-drawn, terrifically well-proportioned trail maps and terrain descriptions, coupled with Brutti’s endearing doodles, including caricatures of himself as a mustachioed bumpkin engaged in all manner of backcountry mishap – going over the handlebars, stumbling through patches of cacti, etc.
In real life, the tall, sun-chapped 69-year-old is somewhat less accident-prone than his cartoon counterpart. And he sports a stylish goatee, not a mustache. “I did most of those illustrations in the ‘90s, and I did have a mustache then,” he says with a laugh.
Conducting a brief tour of his “Flagstaff warehouse” (read: his garage) on a warm weekday morning in July, Brutti reveals the gearhead tendencies you might expect. There are two BMW motorcycles, a Suzuki Dual Sport, three mountain bikes (including one that he customized before there was technically such a thing as a “mountain bike”) and a custom-built road bicycle he affectionately calls “Brutus.” Hanging on the wall: a “Berkeley Library” lithograph that hints at Brutti’s former life as a card-carrying California hippie. Having done quite well in the Bay Area T-shirt trade, 33-year-old Brutti moved to Flagstaff with his wife Marcia on a whim in 1979, picking up work in the town’s lone bike shop, Cosmic Cycles. Though nothing resembling a modern mountain bike existed at the time, Brutti was intrigued by the limited network of hiking trails in Coconino County. He and friends modified garden variety road bikes with thicker tire treads and started exploring.
Little did Brutti know, but he was helping launch the nascent culture of mountain biking. “It wasn’t a guy smoking a bowl of hash and coming up with it himself… it just evolved,” he says. “Honestly, it sort of mutually evolved in three places: Marin County north of San Francisco, Crested Butte in Colorado, and Flagstaff.”
By the time modern, mass-production mountain bikes started rolling into shops in the mid-’80s, Brutti was perhaps Flagstaff’s leading authority on single-track trails, which is why the League of American Wheelmen contacted him during a 1988 convention in Phoenix. “So [they] called the bike shop and asked me ‘Can you put together a few trail maps for us?’ And I said ‘Yeah, I can do that.’ It was basically 50 pages of maps that I hand-drew from memory.”
The pamphlet was so well-received that Brutti rolled off 50 copies at the local printer, titled the book Fat Tire Tales & Trails and stocked them on consignment at a handful of Flagstaff-area bicycle shops. “They were gone in three days,” he remembers with a smile.
And the rest is DIY history. Filling a market void, Brutti sold 15,000 copies of Fat Tire during its peak year in the mid-’90s, and almost as many units of 50 Favorite Hikes to the equally underserved hiking crowd. Today, he sells about 5,000 copies of each annually along with Hiking Phoenix, a top-to-bottom look at Valley trails he recently updated with a new edition. “Half the stuff [from the first edition] isn’t there anymore,” he says. “Like Mesa Red Mountain. There are houses where the trail used to be.”
Managing his small publishing empire has been a full-time job for Brutti for two decades; he’s his own art director and distribution chief, and spends much of the year updating out-of-date editions with lengthy hiking and biking trips. It’s his dream job, but Arizona’s poet laureate of the outback hasn’t stopped pumping his legs.
“I did well with T-shirts, I did well with my books,” he muses. “I’m looking for that one last thing. My third home run.”
ALL ABOARD
Midnight train to Georgia? Last train to Clarksville? 3:10 to Yuma? Arizona’s remaining passenger trains will have you singing the praises of the rails. We present your proverbial ticket to ride.
In some parts of central Phoenix, you can still hear train horns bellowing in the night. Smelter railroads running ore from mines and freight trains flush with industrial goods still chug along tracks through our desert metropolis, but passenger rails are rare. Passenger train depots – some dating to the 19th century – dotted the state until automobiles made them obsolete in the mid-century. From the time Central Arizona Railway was organized on May 10, 1884 by a group of local businessmen in Prescott to the final foray of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway from Flagstaff in 1971, passenger trains played a vital role in getting people to and fro across the Copper State. One train still serves local journeymen – Amtrak’s Southwest Chief line, which makes four stops in Arizona on its way from Los Angeles to Chicago. And two trains take passengers on perfectly picturesque journeys through Arizona’s awe-inspiring canyons.
GRAND CANYON RAILWAY
The Grand Canyon Railway made its first trip to the Grand Canyon on September 17, 1901. After seeing its seats filled with the likes of Theodore Roosevelt, John Muir, Doris Day and Clark Gable, GCR ceased operation in 1968 because of reduced ridership stemming from the popularity of automobiles. Under the ownership of entrepreneurs Max and Thelma Biegert, GCR reopened for passenger service on September 17, 1989. Riders are entertained by guitar- and harmonica-playing troubadours moving throughout the train, and can stay at the depot-adjacent Grand Canyon Hotel.
233 N. Grand Canyon Blvd., Williams, 800-843-8724, thetrain.com
GCR Stats
Roundtrip Route: Williams, Arizona to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon (130 miles roundtrip)
Engines: Diesel locomotives – No. 2134 (GP7 type built by General Motors in 1953); Nos. 6773, 6793, 6776, 6871, 6860 (all FPA4 types built by American Locomotive Company in 1959). Steam engine – No. 4960 built by Baldwin Locomotive Works in 1923.
Notable cars: Pullman Cars (built by the Pullman Palace Car Company in 1923; each car is 88 feet long with an 88-passenger capacity); Cafe Cars (built for the Pennsylvania Railroad by Budd Manufacturing Company in 1952; they primarily served the congressional and senatorial trains along the Boston-Washington, D.C. corridor); Grand View (formerly the Vista Dome on the California Zephyr passenger train; sold to Amtrack in 1971 and then the Alaska Railroad in 1984 before being acquired by GCR in 2004).
Annual passengers: 300,000
Distinctive feature: Get “robbed” by bandanna-clad bandits! Before boarding the train in the morning, passengers watch a “Wild West” show at the train depot, featuring a trio of ornery “outlaw” cowboys. The same dudes show up on the return voyage, racing on horseback alongside the train and shooting their six-guns in the air before coming aboard and “stealing” whatever tips the prepped passengers have in sight.
Fun fact: The steam engine uses approximately 15,000 gallons of water per roundtrip. That’s about the same amount of water in a standard backyard pool.
Rates (per adult; call for children’s rates): $65 Pullman Class; $75 Coach Class; $149 First Class; $179 Observation Dome Class; $215 Luxury Parlor and Luxury Dome Class (no children younger than 16). Visit thetrain.com for schedules.
Near the Depot
Grand Canyon National Park may be the main attraction around Williams (and the sole destination of Grand Canyon Railway), but these destinations aren’t too far off the rails.
Grand Canyon Brewery: Sample a variety of Arizona microbrews (including beer from Historic Brewing Company in Flagstaff) before getting a glass or growler-fill. Brewery tours upon request; inquire at the conjoined Cruisers Cafe 66. 233 W. Route 66, Williams, 800-513-2072, grandcanyonbrewery.com. (Distance from train depot: 0.2 miles)
Bearizona Wildlife Park: Drive through this park on a GPS-guided tour and get a good, long gander at a variety of wildlife including bears, elk, zebras and buffalo. 1500 E. Route 66, Williams, 928-635-2289, bearizona.com. (Distance from the train depot: 2.3 miles)
Man vs. Machine
Hundreds of bicyclists will try to literally “beat the train” on Saturday, September 26. The matchup pits Grand Canyon Railway – powered by the 310-ton steam engine #4960 – against cyclists in an epic, 54-mile race from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon to the town of Williams. Roundtrip train tickets cost $75 per adult; race registration costs $80 and closes September 24. Visit thetrain.com for more information.
VERDE CANYON RAILROAD
Running on railroad tracks constructed in 1911 by former Montana senator William Andrews Clark (namesake of nearby Clarkdale), Verde Canyon Railroad was purchased – sight unseen – by businessman Dave Durbano in 1988. It made its maiden voyage as a pure passenger train on November 23, 1990. When not sightseeing outside on open-air platform cars, riders are treated to a trickle of train-themed songs spilling from the speakers, such as “Chattanooga Choo-Choo,” “I’ve Been Working on the Railroad” and “Peace Train.”
300 N. Broadway, Clarkdale, 800-293-7245, verdecanyonrr.com
VCR Stats
Roundtrip Route: Through the Verde Canyon from Clarkdale to Perskinville (46 miles roundtrip)
Engine: Locomotive FP7 built by General Motors in 1953
Annual passengers: 100,000
Distinctive feature: The train makes a 10-minute stop to turn around in the “town” of Perkinsville, which consists of some old cattle pens and four buildings (including an old train depot). The last steam engines came through the town in 1952. Scenes from the 1963 movie How the West Was Won were shot here, including one showing George Peppard, Debbie Reynolds and Eli Wallach in the depot.
Fun fact: One of the canyons along the rail route is dubbed “SOB Canyon.” There have been numerous connotations tied to this 175-foot-deep gorge’s moniker, but it is not named after its more acrimonious acronym. One popular legend attributes the canyon’s name to a river pilot Bill Diamond, aka “Sweet Ol’ Bill.” But the “SOB” is actually “Superintendent of Bridges.”
Rates: Coach – $64.95 adults, $44.95 children 12 and younger, $59.95 seniors 65 and older; First Class $89.95. Visit verdecanyonrr.com for schedules.
Near the Depot
Verde Valley Vino: Taste the grapes and terroir of Arizona along Main Street in Cottonwood with stops at the tasting rooms for Arizona Stronghold Vineyards (azstronghold.com), Four Eight Wineworks (four8wineworks.com), Pillsbury Wine Company (), Fire Mountain Wines (firemountainwines.com) and Burning Tree Cellars (burningtreecellars.com) – all located within stumbling distance of one another. (Distance from the train depot: 2.5 miles)
Blazin’ M Ranch: Folks visiting this Old West “frontier town” can kick up their spurs with modern shopping, a vintage tractor pull, ropin’ lessons, live country music, and a chuckwagon supper. 1875 Mabery Ranch Rd., Cottonwood, 928-634-0334, blazinm.com. (Distance from the train depot: 4.7 miles)
Mileposts of Note
From iron bridges and manmade tunnels to Tuzigoot National Monument and the ruins of ranches, there’s plenty to see along the rails on Verde Canyon Railroad. Some highlights:
Milepost 37: A 6-foot-high cave marks the spot of Sinagua cliff dwellings, visible on the left side of the train.
Milepost 36: Take a gander at a tall smokestack to the right – a remnant of the original TAPCO power plant, built in 1918 and closed in the 1960s.
Milepost 31.4: Look to the left and check out an old telegraph line. Peep an old Hohokam pit-house across the river on the top of the hill.
Milepost 24: Anthropomorphic Turtle Rock crawls into view on the right side of the train, at the end of a bluff.
Milepost 19: The train crosses a covered steel bridge. A large cave excavated in the 1960s by Arizona State Museum geologists lies on the left.
Locomotive Breath
Learn more about Arizona railroads at these locomotive-focused spots here in the Valley.
McCormick-Stillman Railroad Park
Ride the Paradise and Pacific Railroad; peruse exhibits including the 1907 Magma Arizona Railroad Engine No. 6, the 1928 Roald Amundsen Pullman Car used by every president from Herbert Hoover through Dwight Eisenhower, and the 1930 Gabe Brooks Machine Shop with original equipment; have a picnic. Free admission. 7301 E. Indian Bend Rd., Scottsdale, 480-312-2312, therailroadpark.com
Arizona Railway Museum
Wander among an array of locomotives, dining cars, cabooses and more spanning more than 100 years. Free admission to display yard; $2 per person to tour cars. Reopens after summer break on September 12. 330 E. Ryan Rd., Chandler, 480-821-1108, azrymuseum.org
5 FALL DRIVES
If your preferred relationship with the Arizona road involves four wheels, check out one of these curated autumn drives.
Fall Color Bonanza
Lockett Meadow Road/Forest Road 552
Located 12 miles northeast of Flagstaff off US 89, Lockett Meadow – also known as Forest Road 552 – is one of Arizona’s great “primitive road” drives, boasting a humbling canopy of aspens and lush sub-alpine grasses. It’s a tunnel of gorgeousness, but it’s not a particularly long drive – once you turn left on FR 420 across from the Sunset Crater turnoff on US 89, it’s only a half-mile to FR 552 (turn right) and then another mile or so to the end of the line at the Inner Basin #29 trailhead. Your day-filler: a terrific hike in the San Francisco Mountains, if you want it.
Travel Tune: “Nights in White Satin” by Moody Blues
Where to Stay: Camping is available in Lockett Meadow Campground through mid-October for $10 per night.
Info: www.fs.usda.gov/coconino/
Downhill Fun
Oak Creek Canyon/89A
The uphill climb on Oak Creek Canyon from Sedona to Flagstaff is plenty amusing, with its mob of maple trees and hairpin reveals, but why labor? Start in Flag at the I-17 and coast your way down 89A, cracking your window to take long draughts of air scented by sycamores, cottonwoods and ash. Stretch your legs at mile marker 385, where the West Fork Trail turnoff invites travelers to enjoy a moderate two-hour hike filled with sandstone canyons and burbling creeks. The 28-mile cruise concludes in downtown Sedona – where overnight options and dining opportunities are plentiful.
Travel Tune: “Free Fallin’” by Tom Petty
Where to Stay: Hey, look, it’s L’Auberge. Done deal. lauberge.com
Info: www.fs.usda.gov/coconino/
Rocky Photo Ops
Tucson to Willcox/10 E
A more familiar Southern AZ route would take fall motorists south on SR-83 to the wine country hamlet of Sonoita, but our preference is to continue east (well, technically south) on the I-10 through the towns of Vail and Benson, after which you’ll climb into the foothills of the Dragoon Mountains and its captivating sienna boulder formations. Hang a left on Dragoon Road about 20 miles west of Willcox to score an eyeful of Cottonwood-flanked esplanades and riotous, don’t-tread-on-me homestead signage.
Travel Tune: “Rock Steady” by The Whispers
Where to Stay: Since the Horse You Rode In On Inn closed a few years ago, we’ve been disconsolate. Try Cochise Stronghold B&B in Pierce. strongholdranch.com
Info: cochisestronghold.com
Full Weekend Drive
North Rim, Grand Canyon
No, we’re not exactly breaking Watergate here – the Canyon is fairly well-established as a pleasure-drive destination. (Ya think?) But if you’re just driving, and not hiking or camping, forego the less-remote, tourist-mobbed South Rim in favor of the North Rim, with its autumn bursts of aspen stands and opportunities for panoramic solitude. The standard North Rim drive starts at Bitter Springs south of Page and follows the 89A to Jacob Lake, then south on SR 67 to the Canyon. You’ll pass landmarks like Navajo Bridge and Vermilion Cliffs on the way. Closes for the season October 15.
Travel Tune: “Valley Girl” by Frank Zappa
Where to Stay: The Grand Canyon Lodge (grandcanyonlodgenorth.com) is a no-brainer, but reservations must come months in advance.
Close to Home
AZ 88/Apache Trail/Roosevelt Dam
For a not-too-distant jaunt, motor east on the US 60 through Mesa to the AZ 88 east. Here’s where your near-Valley autumn day-drive begins, with liftoff near the saguaro forests of Lost Dutchman State Park and a white-knuckle climb through the jagged turns of the Superstition Mountains. Find refreshment in the Old West town of Tortilla Flat, then brace yourself for an unpaved ramble to one of two large bodies of water: Apache Lake or Roosevelt Lake. Congrats: You’ve just completed the legendary Apache Trail stagecoach route. After taking a dip, continue on the AZ 88 to Globe-Miami and loop back to the Valley.
Travel Tune: “The Real El Rey,” Frank Black
Where to Stay: Your bed.
