A splendid Mexican bistro grows up in the shadow of Bink’s Midtown.
“Hidden gem” is one of those clichés you try to avoid as a food writer, alongside “crave-worthy” and “flavor explosion.” Yet it aptly describes the discrete charms of Mejico Cocina Mejicana, which snuck into existence last winter with little fanfare. Located across the street from Bink’s Midtown in Phoenix, the eatery is owned and operated by the Obed de la Cruz family, whose other establishments include El Zócalo Mexican Grille in Chandler and Mangos Mexican Café in Mesa.
Conceived as a more upscale version of those restaurants, Mejico is a welcome addition to the Valley’s growing haute Mexican dining scene. Prices are a little steep for the genre, but considering the quality of the food, it’s well worth the spend.
The restaurant’s narrow dining room has about 10 tables and walls adorned with paintings by local artist Jody Livingston Bojorquez, a tiny bar and a tree-shaded patio reminiscent of a home backyard.
All entrées come with a mound of rice, a choice of black or pinto beans and corn tortillas made at de la Cruz’s Chandler bakery. While you wait for your food, order a frosty margarita ($11-$25) and rustle up an order of guacamole ($8) served with freshly made corn tortilla chips.
Don’t miss the mole de pollo ($18), chicken simmered in chocolate, peanut butter and sesame seed mole sauce. The rich, smooth sauce permeates the tender chicken, flooding it with flavor. Another good bet is the chile verde ($16), a generous portion of slow-cooked diced pork lit up with a spicy green chile sauce. Spoon it into a hot fresh tortilla with pinto beans and rice or scoop it up with a chip. A word about Mejico’s beans: They’re cooked to perfection, not the mushy, flavorless mouthful you might get at a chain.
Enchilada fans will be torn between enchiladas de pollo or enchiladas de res (beef), but not to worry. You can order one of each ($15). The chicken enchilada laced with green tomatillo sauce is topped with crema Mejicana and the shredded beef enchilada features a mild red sauce. Both are flavor, ahem, explosions.
For a high-protein fix, head for the ahi tacos ($17). Served on corn tortillas, they come two to an order and are stuffed with a slab of seared ahi, sliced avocado, onions, cilantro and a chile-tickled red sauce. I found only one disappointment: the backyard carne asada ($20), marinated and thinly sliced sirloin that proved chewy and difficult to cut.
Close out your meal with an order of sopapillas ($6) – four delectable cushions of fried dough accompanied by honey and butter and dusted with powdered sugar – or a slice of creamy flan ($6).
The vibe is definitely laid-back, which was detrimental to the service. Even when it wasn’t busy, service was spotty, with occasional long waits for food and AWOL servers. Oddly enough, that doesn’t take away too much from the experience. Pass the chips, order another marg and relax – you’re in Mejico.
DETAILS
Mejico Cocina Mejicana
Cuisine: Mexican
Contact: 2333 E. Osborn Rd., Phoenix, 602-956-4420, mejicoaz.com
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. M-F; 5-10 p.m. Sa; happy hour 3-6 p.m. M-F
Highlights: Mole de pollo ($18); chile verde ($16); ahi tacos ($17); enchiladas de pollo and de res combo ($15)
