Cheeky Austin import wins fans with moist, hand-spanked patties and sinful shakes.
Hopdoddy is sexy and they know it. The trendy beef and brew palace is the brainchild of Larry Foles and Guy Villavaso, founders of Roaring Fork and Salty Sow. The venture has all the hallmarks of an Austin import: black-and-white photo murals, homemade buns, locally sourced ingredients and servers with Southern sass whose uniforms declare, “We spank our patties and they like it.”
Yep, they’re keeping it weird, and clearly the gimmick works. Scottsdale’s Hopdoddy is as crowded as its sister sites, with roped entry lines to rival a Stetson Drive nightclub.
The focus is on designer burgers, most of which are good to the last bite. The groovy Magic Shroom ($8.50) is tangy and robust, while the Terlingua ($7.50) is a delectable nod to Arizona’s “other” Three C’s: chili, cheese and corn chips. Basically deconstructed Frito pie, its salty crunch holds the same childlike appeal as pouring potato chips onto PB&J sandwiches.
Only two of the signature burgers fail the taste-test. Quaggy, unappetizing peppers dominate the Llano Poblano ($8), while The Primetime ($12) is sabotaged by fatty Japanese beef that has a straight-from-the-chub mouthfeel. I much preferred the succulent hormone- and antibiotic-free Angus patties, even though they were a little pinker than requested during peak dining hours.
Grill time isn’t a problem for the ahi burger ($12), sushi-grade tuna perked up by sweet wasabi. It was clean and mild, with no hint of piscatorial pungency. Other notable beef alternatives include a juicy turkey “club” ($8) with thick applewood-smoked bacon, and a Mediterranean-spiced lamb patty ($9) that outclasses mainstream gyros.
In a land of burger joints that consider a bowl of wilted iceberg lettuce and half-green tomatoes a salad, Hopdoddy is a veritable vegetarian sanctuary. Sweet watermelon chunks, briny feta and avocado make for an unexpectedly refreshing trio in the baby kale salad ($9). Despite its cheeky name, I didn’t expect to “Hail Caesar” after sampling Hopdoddy’s romaine-based classic ($6). But thanks to the spicy crunch of fried chickpeas, the dish was a favorite among friends, Romans and countrymen.
Kennebec fries are supple, without the greasiness or charred exterior of their fast food counterparts. Fine au naturel, they’re world-endingly delicious with truffle oil and grated parmesan ($6). Creamy shakes and fountain sodas ($3) made with cane sugar are welcome throwbacks to a simpler time. There’s not a bad shake in the lot, though the chocolate stout’s lack of hoppy tang firmly places it behind silky red velvet and sinfully rich sea salt caramel ($5.50).
Hopdoddy’s “order-at-the-counter, then get an assigned seat for full service” set-up takes a little getting used to. So do quirks like mislabeled tables and missing grub. “Don’t sugarcoat it. They’re flaws,” a too-honest table jockey quipped in apology. Her no-nonsense attitude and speedy fixes easily made up for the snag. Quirks aside, moist burgers, solid salads and classed-up sides make Arizona’s first Hopdoddy a Texas-size hit.
DETAILS
Hopdoddy Burger Bar
Cuisine: American, Burgers
Address: 11055 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale
Phone: 480-348-2337
Website: hopdoddy.com
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday
Highlights: Magic Shroom ($8.50); Terlingua ($7.50); ahi burger ($12); Continental Club ($8); The Greek ($9); Hail Caesar salad ($6); truffle Kennebec fries ($6); red velvet milkshake ($5.50)
