Meatless Meat Loaf

Written by Marilyn Hawkes Category: Veg Out Issue: February 2015
Group Mid-Level
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It’s a good bet most vegetarians and vegans don’t crave meatloaf, but few would turn up their noses to the robust substitute whipped up by House of Tricks Executive Chef Scott Umscheid. He devised the mixed-mushroom and black bean meatloaf ($22) after discovering that a vegan was coming to dinner and realizing the menu lacked an entrée to accommodate the request. “If I was a vegetarian, I would want something hearty like this,” Umscheid says.

To prepare the dish, he broils black beans and roasts button mushrooms in the oven, then purées them and adds tomato paste, rice flour and chili powder. He folds in sautéed crimini, shiitake and oyster mushrooms, spreads the mixture onto a sheet pan and bakes it at a low temperature to keep it moist, until it “comes out looking like a brownie.”

After cooking the “meat,” he places the blend on top of Anna potatoes, sliced and layered spuds made with olive oil rather than butter and milk to “keep it vegan-friendly.” He crowns the loaf with melted Brie and fried shallot rings, both of which can be left off for vegans and replaced with peppers or green onion curls. Also adorning the plate: grilled leek chimichurri sauce made with cilantro, parsley, olive oil and red vinegar, and a pair of baby carrots.

House of Tricks
114 E. Seventh St., Tempe