PHOENIX Magazine
Subscribe to PHOENIX Magazine TodayGive a Gift of PHOENIX MagazinePHOENIX Magazine Customer Service

DiningTravel & OutdoorsLifestyleBest of the ValleyTop DoctorsTop DentistsArticle Archive
Subscribe Today

Great Escapes

Portland, Oregon

Author: Celeste Sepessy
Issue: March, 2011, Page 58
Spirit of 77 sports bar


In this hip corner of the country, local brews rule, food trucks fill you up and the almighty bike is the only way to travel.

While the world struggles to live locally and sustainably, one Pacific Northwest city seems to have it all figured out. Portland, Oregon is the trendsetting mecca for all things cool. What began as a fishing and lumber town has recently transformed into an active urban planning hub filled with blossoming art, music and homegrown pub scenes. Surrounded by lush, rain-washed greenery, this progressive town cultivates a unique, independent spirit in a modest, manageable, metropolitan area.

But what truly sets Portland apart is its dedication to healthy living, with an emphasis on local food and an active lifestyle. To many Portlanders, this lifestyle rolls on two wheels. The compact city is laced with more than 300 miles of bike paths. With the help of the $600 million Portland Bicycle Plan, the city will add about 600 miles of bicycle paths by 2030 in the hopes that 25 percent of daily trips will be made by bicycle.

Vacationers don’t have to be hardcore cyclists to enjoy Portland’s perks, however. By picking a centrally located hotel, everything you’ll need will be within a 5-mile radius. Plus, spring in the City of Roses shows off the city’s flourishing flora, with daily temperatures in the 50s and 60s – perfect cycling weather. So ditch the rental car and head to a bike shop, where daily rentals start at $30. After all, bicycling is this city’s heart and soul.

Stumptown Coffee Roasters in southeast Portland
Caffeination Stations
Espresso is Portland’s lifeblood. With hundreds of vendors throughout the city, it’s impossible not to fuel up pre-sightseeing with a flawlessly pulled espresso shot. Seattle may have made coffee famous, but Portland perfected it.

Case in point: Stumptown Coffee Roasters. This modest shop opened in Portland’s southeast neighborhood in 1999, and its personal approach to roasting handpicked beans created the “third wave” of coffee – a movement that prizes coffee as a refined luxury rather than a commodity.

Similarly, Coava represents the Portland coffee mindset – pure, minimalist and sustainable. This raw, modern space nestles nicely into the southeast industrial district a few blocks east of Hawthorne Bridge. But don’t bother asking for a sugar-free caramel chocolate-chip frap; the menu is bare bones – in a good way. Owner/roaster Matt Higgins rotates the menu daily to reflect current and seasonal roastings. Check out Coava’s coffee flights so you can pick your favorite.

Other noteworthy coffeemakers include Coffeehouse Northwest, Albina Press (north), Fresh Pot (north), Three Friends Coffee House (southeast) and Barista (Pearl).

A River Runs Through It
The Willamette River divides Portland in half, creating a corridor that brings beauty and practicality to the city. For cyclists, the Willamette provides fun bridges to glide across and scenic pathways along the riverbanks. Riders can zip onto the paths virtually anywhere, but a popular loop begins with Steel Bridge to the north and ends with Sellwood Bridge to the south. The path is the perfect place to acquaint yourself with the city’s heart; you’ll pass by rustic rail yards and bustling docks amid miles of greenery.

End your ride at the Portland Saturday Market, the largest continually open arts and crafts fair in the country, showcasing more than 400 vendors who capture Portland’s edgy essence. The fair, located under the Burnside Bridge’s west end, makes use of the waterfront plaza, so take advantage of the cushy grass and take a seat. In July, the tree-lined riverbank also hosts the wildly popular Oregon Brewers Festival.

cyclists with Pedal Bike Tours ride along the Willamette River
Street Eats
If you’re seeing Portland by bike, food trucks will be your best friends. More than 500 line the city’s streets, slinging everything from Korean barbeque sandwiches to waffles to traditional Czech schnitzel.

If you find yourself pedaling through the artsy, bohemian southeast sector, hit the Hawthorne food cart pod. This congregation features some of the city’s best-known trucks, including Potato Champion (gourmet fries), Whiffles (fried sweet and savory pies) and Pyro Pizza (wood-fired pizzas). Nothing will cost you more than $10, and you won’t have to worry about locking up your bike.

If you’re craving the best pork sandwich of your life, head one mile north to Burnside Street and stop at Slow and Low. Order the classic pork confit with house-made sauerkraut, pickled red onion, horseradish golden beet mustard and arugula ($8). (Slow and Low closed for winter and may re-open in March in a new location; check the website.)

Browse the Boutiques
Portland’s independent spirit truly shines through in its mom-and-pop shopping experience. For any bibliophile, Powell’s City of Books is the Promised Land. The store takes up a city block and fills its 1.6 acres of retail space with 4 million books.

From Powell’s, head north on 13th Avenue to the Pearl district, one of Portland’s true delights. Though once an industrial eyesore, the recently reinvented Pearl is hip and sophisticated. Stop at Cargo, the gigantic, indie version of Cost Plus World Market. Next, head to Oblation on 12th Avenue. This delicate 19th-century print shop specializes in custom letterpress invitations and cards. Pearl is also home to bigger-name retailers such as Moule, West Elm and Lululemon.

Once again, pedal northeast across Broadway Bridge to historic North Mississippi Avenue. This newly populated corridor has loads of approachable boutiques, galleries and restaurants. Check out Flutter for treasured heirlooms and the Rebuilding Center, a warehouse full of recycled stained-glass windows and reclaimed Douglas fir furniture. And don’t miss Land, a gallery/retail space with darling prints, cards, T-shirts and souvenirs, like Portland Bingo.

Tasty n Sons’ potatoes bravas
Portland Food Tour
In recent years, Portland has become an eater’s paradise. In a time when fresh, local food is king, Portland has simply been waiting for the rest of the country to catch up. 

One such pioneer is Lovely’s Fifty Fifty on Mississippi Avenue. Lovely’s lures patrons with the unexpected scent of homemade waffle cones. If the delightful ice cream counter isn’t enough to sway you, the best gourmet pizza in town will. Our faves: the house-made sausage with parmesan, rosemary and red chard ($15), and the seasonal winter squash with ricotta, sage and brown butter ($13).

If brunch is your bag, trek to Tasty n Sons in the northeast district. This new spot has floored Portlanders with its family-style approach to gourmet, home-style breakfast. Order polenta with sausage ragu and a fried egg ($8), a chocolate potato donut ($1.50), and one of everything else, please.

For dinner, pop into the northeast’s new Cocotte, a French bistro with a Pacific Northwest twist and a swanky bar specializing in vintage cocktails.


PAGE: 1 2