Afterward, we grabbed lunch at the popular Bobke’s Bread Basket, a tiny cottage that is half bakery/half café. Chubby bratwurst stuffed in a freshly made bun with mustardy potato salad and a rich beef goulash were followed by crescent-shaped pastries filled with almond paste, each end dipped in semi-sweet chocolate and almond flakes. I vowed to stock up on more before leaving town.

Invigorated, we headed for the San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area. The San Pedro is one of the last free-flowing rivers in the Southwest and hallowed ground for birdwatchers, naturalists and hikers. This is a major migratory corridor where up to 350 species of birds show up at various times of the year. Docents orient newbies with interpretive walks, or there are miles of trails for the self-motivated to explore on their own.

Upriver, the Fairbank Historic Townsite is interesting not only for its early Arizona railroad background and restored 1920s  schoolhouse, but for some classic movie lore as well. John Ford’s Red River was filmed here, and because the width and flow of the San Pedro was deemed cinematically insufficient, the river was dammed for one of only five times in its history.

cake from Bobke’s Bread Basket

Nature of a different sort was on the evening’s agenda as we retired to The Mesquite Tree restaurant. The Tree is to Sierra Vista as Durant’s is to Phoenix – well established and much loved. The spacious, eclectically decorated building fronts an intimate walled patio dominated by a monster 200-year-old mesquite tree. We sat beneath its branches with the stars twinkling above.

Prime rib is the house specialty. Rightfully so – it was well trimmed and succulent – and the so-called “atomic” horseradish will bring a big man to his knees. I, meanwhile, dug into a rib eye special lavished with caramelized onions and melted Gruyère, a neat take on French onion soup. A fun side option to dinner is the fluffy chile relleno casserole.

bratwurst from Sophie's with potato salad from Bobke’s Bread Basket

Recreation
Birds were the next day’s quarries. First, we took a cool, scenic stroll through Ramsey Canyon Preserve, afloat with darting hummingbirds and clouds of butterflies, then came back to the fort to watch hummingbird banding. This most delicate of operations involves licensed experts from the Hummingbird Monitoring Network netting, weighing and measuring the birds and carefully wrapping an identifying tag around one toothpick-sized leg. The kids watching were enthralled, and so was I, when a bander carefully handed me a bird to release back into the wild.

Our dinner at The German Café was a terrific send-off. The intimate, old-fashioned space was buzzing with customers conversing in German. A good sign, as they say. Lightly crusted golden schnitzel with deep-flavored mushroom gravy and irregular little spaetzle was as good as anything I’ve had in its country of origin. A generous wurst salad made with chopped sausage, cheese, pickles, hard-boiled egg and onion dressed with tart vinaigrette was served with a tidy loaf of pretzel bread. Schlag-drifted chocolate and rum cakes put a sweet exclamation point on the meal.

Along with abundant history and natural splendors, Sierra Vista is a hotbed of community activities. The weekend we visited, there was a wine tasting featuring local vintners and a Celtic fiddle contest. A little ways out of town, the Arizona Folklore Preserve hosts Western performance artists almost every weekend throughout the year.

And there are plenty of excellent restaurants for those who believe the real way to get to know a place is to eat our way through it.

A deer in the Ramsey Canyon Preserve area

The Basics
Elevation: 4,623 feet
Temperature: January, 33/61;
February, 36/65; March, 41/70

Sleep & Stay
Windemere Hotel & Conference Center
2047 S. Hwy 92, Sierra Vista
520-459-5900 • windemerehotel.com

Eat & Drink
Bobke’s Bread Basket
355 W. Wilcox Drive,
520-458-8580

The German Café
1805 Paseo San Luis,
520-456-1705

The Mesquite Tree
South Hwy 92 and Carr Canyon Road,
520-378-2758

Sophia’s Italian Ristorante
1630 E. Fry Blvd.,
520-452-0622

Activities
Arizona Folklore Preserve
56 Folklore Trail, Hereford
520-378-6165 • arizonafolklore.com 

Fairbank Historic Townsite
Between Whetstone and
Tombstone on Hwy 92
520-457-3062 • sanpedroriver.org

Fort Huachuca Hummingbird Banding
Fort Huachuca • sabo.org

Fort Huachuca Museums
Main Gate, Fort Huachuca,
520-533-3638

Ramsey Canyon Preserve
27 E. Ramsey Canyon Rd., Hereford
520-378-2785 • nature.org

San Pedro House and Riparian
National Conservation Area
9800 E. Hwy 90
520-508-4445 • sanpedroriver.org

Information
Sierra Vista Visitor Center
3020 E. Tacoma St., 1-800-288-3861 or 520-417-6960 • visitsierravista.com