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Great Escapes

Terrific Telluride

Author: Ashlea Deahl
Issue: August, 2009, Page 56
Photo courtesy Capella Telluride

View of the San Juan Mountains from Capella Telluride
Move over, snow bunnies. There are countless reasons to enjoy this cool mountain town in the summer, too.

Dorothy may have skipped along a yellow brick road to get to Oz, but for us in the Southwest, the town of Telluride, Colorado, is the magical destination, and the path is paved with rocky mountain trails, soaring gondola rides and verdant valleys.

Although typically known as a winter haven for skiers, boarders and snow bunnies, Telluride – and its baby sister to the west, Mountain Village – is also the perfect summer retreat. Enveloped by cool mountain air and lush scenery, and punctuated by a quaint village that summons the spirit of small-town America, Telluride beckons Arizonans from more than 9,000 feet above the scorched desert.

Whether you seek a leisurely reprieve from the heat, an active mountain adventure or one of Telluride’s world-renowned festivals, a trip to this breathtaking town should be on your bucket list.

In the Beginning
First, we must thank the past generations that gave us this picturesque town, situated at the bottom of a glacially carved box canyon amid Colorado’s San Juan Mountains. (The highest peak, Mount Wilson, soars to 14,000 feet and is recognizable even to those who’ve never seen it in person: Just pick up a can of Coors Light; its frosty mountain emblem was modeled after the mountain.)

From the Utes, who most likely discovered Telluride’s furtive land first, to the Spanish explorers who named the San Juans in the 1700s, Telluride is rich with history – quite literally. It wasn’t until gold was discovered in 1858 near what is now Denver that settlers truly arrived in the area.

Photo courtesy Ashlea Deahl

Telluride Bluegrass Festival
By 1876, the area teemed with prospectors, who set up camps and lived in the mountains year-round with their families, braving harsh winter conditions and dangerous mining expeditions. (Telluride’s population of 2,200 today is roughly half of what it was during its mining heyday.)

These miners settled the town of Columbia, which eventually became Telluride due to some confusion with a town of the same name in California. Theories abound as to the origin of the name, but perhaps the most amusing is that it may have mimicked the famous send-off “To-hell-u-ride!” for gold diggers who ventured into the rugged mountains in search of riches.

World War II and the Depression took a toll on Telluride’s mining operations, and it wasn’t until the 1970s that entrepreneurs transformed the town into a world-class skiing destination with top-tier resorts, access to plenty of winter recreation and myriad festivals and community events. In fact, some of the town’s longest-running events – the Telluride Bluegrass Festival and Telluride Film Festival, for instance – began in the ’70s.

Finally, thanks to the efforts of some tenacious Telluridians, the area remains pristine and unfettered by modern-day construction (read: strip malls). In June 2008, after 25 years and several costly court battles, the citizens were able to purchase 570 acres of grassy Telluride from the San Miguel Valley Corporation for $53 million, ensuring it will never be developed. You can see this emerald jewel of land as you fly or drive into Telluride, obstructed only by grazing elk and the small surrounding village populated by Victorian-style homes.

Left to right: Photos courtesy Capella Telluride; Benko Photographics

Left, Lobby at Capella Telluride, right, Telluride’s gondola system

You’re There, Now What?
Once you’ve arrived in Telluride (which often requires a flight to Denver, then another to Montrose, then an hour-long drive into town), you’ll want to settle into your cozy retreat of choice. In this case, Capella Telluride is your best choice.

Nestled at the base of Mountain Village, Capella is a mere 10-minute gondola ride to and from Telluride. The gondola as a form of mass transit is terrific, by the way: It’s free, there’s rarely a wait, the smooth ride offers sweeping views of the surrounding mountains, and you’ll never need a car to get around the village, making it the most convenient and eco-friendly place you’ll visit all year.

But back to Capella. The luxurious resort opened just this February, but its worldwide brand is known for impeccable service, plush décor and personal touches. “Personal assistants” cater to each guest’s whims, and little things like stocked mini-fridges (at no cost) and no check-in or check-out times make this cozy resort feel more like a grandma-run bed-and-breakfast.

Capella’s 100 guest rooms and 60 condo suites are outfitted with ultra-modern amenities and accented by warm, cabin-like touches to emphasize the mountain-getaway experience: Think wood-beam ceilings, stone-tiled floors, handcrafted wood headboards and brush strokes of burnt orange and ruby red.

The most attractive feature, however, may be the dramatic, panoramic views of the San Juans just outside your terrace. Even in summer, the highest peaks are dolloped with just enough meringue-like topping to add a touch of coziness to your stay. (In fact, temperatures can still dip into the 30s and 40s on a summer night, so bring a sweater and cuddle up by Capella’s outdoor fire pit or intimate fire-lit living room.)

If you’d prefer to stay directly in Telluride, take advantage of the New Sheridan Hotel’s recent renovations. Located along Telluride’s main strip, just two blocks from the ski lifts, the hotel’s 26 guest rooms each received a modern makeover last year, bringing this historic gem (it’s been around since 1895) into the new millennium.



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