Activities
For the able-bodied, no trip to the canyon is complete without a good hike. If you are seriously in shape, book a reservation to trek to the bottom with a guide or on the back of a mule. This will take about seven hours roundtrip, but it is worth it to stand inside the belly of the canyon.
If you don’t have the time or the energy, you can take a self-guided hike along the Bright Angel Trail, traveling as far or short a distance as you want to go. This trail is easy to follow and well populated with other hikers, so there is no risk of getting lost. Check out hieroglyphics along the canyon walls and marvel at the layers of sandstone jutting high above you. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot one of the condors that have been tagged and released there. Pictures scarcely do this humongous bird justice; when one flies by you’ll think it’s prehistoric – or out of a movie.
The trick to hiking the canyon is this: Drink lots of water and save your energy for the hike up, which will be much harder than an overzealous romp down.
Then, give your feet a rest and take a bus tour. A two-hour roundtrip excursion will take you to Hermit’s Rest, designed by the late architect Mary Colter in 1914. It’s now a rest stop and gift shop, famous for Colter’s signature stone façade that almost blends into the canyon walls. This trip offers stunning views of the width of the gorge and the calm, chocolate-milk-colored Colorado River.
For a different view, head east on a Harvey Car, as the buses are called, for a four-hour roundtrip journey to the Desert View Watchtower, another of Colter’s designs. From this stone tower, you can peer down at the river’s raging rapids and get a 360-degree view of the Painted Desert, San Francisco Peaks and Vermilion Cliffs.
There is plenty of culture to soak up for those who prefer museums and bookshops. Don’t miss Kolb Studio, a charming spot with interesting books and a photo gallery. One kiosk displays the fascinating history of the Kolb brothers, early photographers and videographers in the area. You can view their photos digitally and listen to archived interviews about those pioneering days.
Two gift shops are worth a visit. One is Hopi House, which opened in 1905 as the canyon’s first curio shop, just steps from El Tovar. There, you’ll find a knowledgeable curator who sells fine Native American art. Don’t miss the case of “old pawn” – antique and extremely valuable Native American jewelry. Another is Verkamp’s, the last family-run gift shop at the canyon. There, you’ll find the standard fare: affordable silver jewelry, souvenir shot glasses and wooden walking sticks. Pick up the extremely popular book Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon if you’re curious about people who stood too close to the ledge.
Food
For a quick bite to eat (think hot dogs and ice cream) stand in line at the Bright Angel Fountain. Or for a sit-down meal of seafood and chicken, try the casual, Western-themed Arizona Room.
El Tovar once again offers the most upscale option. Start with the mozzarella roulades of prosciutto and basil pesto ($11). It is served in perfect medallions, swathed in roma tomatoes, black olives and olive oil. The best entrée on the menu is arguably a simple New York strip steak topped with buttermilk cornmeal onion rings and sided with pepper jack au gratin potatoes ($28.50). The fish is less fresh, but dessert does not disappoint; save room for the signature Neapolitan on a crispy honey tortilla, or the chocolate taco.
As with the room, you’ll want to make dinner reservations far in advance. Everyone clamors for a spot in the grand dining room, which is original to the hotel. But you’re much better off in the quiet, scenic room that was added on. Modern architects – presumably ones who actually visited the site – created a massive glass wall, offering a serene view of the sun setting over the sandstone. A sunrise breakfast is just as good; try chocolate-chip Belgian waffles or polenta corn cakes with prickly pear pistachio butter.
Finish the night with a stroll along the canyon to see what all the daytime visitors miss. After dark, the sky shimmers with stars and the canyon becomes black and majestic, leaving more to the imagination. In your sweatshirt and sneakers, you’ll feel like you’re at camp for grown-ups and shake your head at all those Phoenicians who don’t know what they are missing.