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Great Escapes

Greer: A World Away

Author: Tara Brite
Issue: July, 2007, Page 60
Photo by Amberian Peaks Lodge

Amberian Peks Lodge's outdoor patio overlooks Greer Valley.
The lodge’s restaurant features an intimate dining room that overlooks the valley of Greer, punctuated by the Little Colorado and the sprawling mountains. Here, Executive Chef Shellee Nelson-Roberts whips up inventive appetizers, like fried olives stuffed with cheese and served in a martini glass, and comforting entrées done well, like a Hawaiian pizza juiced up with pineapple and mango.

The Amberian Peaks Lodge isn’t just about relaxation and comfort, although you’ll be tempted to indulge yourself in nothing but its overwhelming serenity. This bed-and-breakfast-style resort has a wild side that comes in the form of one paranormal repeat visitor: Zeke.

Zeke, according to Anne and Don, is the lodge’s resident ghost. A creepy but friendly visitor, Zeke often stops by certain rooms to open windows and turn on lights. They believe Zeke was the son of the original owners of the resort and that he roams the lodge his parents built after he died in a car accident.

If ghost hunting isn’t your idea of a good time, don’t worry. Zeke rarely appears, says Anne, who has never glimpsed the resident ghoul. And the lodge offers plenty of other activities to keep your mind off the paranormal. From weddings to wine-tastings and lavish murder-mystery-themed weekends, there’s something for everyone at Amberian Peaks.

If you’re in the mood for something low-key, try an early-morning bird walk with professional photographer, tour-guide and bird-lover Michael Giscombe, who lives at the lodge several months out of the year (when he’s not leading bird- and whale-watching tours in Mexico or snapping beautiful black-and-white photographs of nature).

Giscombe meets guests in the lodge’s common room, bright and early, ready to give even the most novice birdwatchers a primer on the area’s flying friends. Depending on your interest level and experience, Giscombe can take you on a trek up Amberian Peak, behind the lodge, or on a leisurely walk down Main Street, which runs through the center of Greer.

Now, Greer, with its resident population of about 150 people, isn’t exactly a bustling metropolitan area, so walking along the town’s major road provides ample bird-watching opportunities.

Not only will Giscombe point out a beautiful sparrow nesting on the roof of a building or a radiant blue jay perched on a branch overhead, he also might give you a history lesson on the origins of the Colorado River or instructions on how to set up a camera for black-and-white photography. Though Giscombe only stays at the lodge during the summer (with temperatures averaging 80 degrees, it’s no wonder why), there is plenty to do the rest of the year without him. (For a complete list of events, visit peaksaz.com.)

If you’re searching for more diversity in your Greer vacation, stay at Amberian Peaks but head to Greer Lodge Resort for a meal. Located right in the middle of Greer, just off the main road, sits a series of brown and green cabins that blend right into the pine trees. They make up Greer Lodge Resort, and inside one of the cabins – overlooking the Little Colorado – is the resort’s award-winning 373 Bar and Grill Restaurant.

The restaurant’s décor is a mixture of wood and stone, giving the restaurant an authentic mountain feel, as if it had been carved directly out of the side of a heaping boulder. But it’s not the interior that has earned 373 its reputation as “the best steakhouse on the mountain.” Thick cuts of quality beef, as well as juicy prime rib and fresh trout, halibut and salmon, give the restaurant its status as a seriously scrumptious place to dine.

The restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch, too. Before heading out for a hike or bird-watching expedition, fill up on the warm, sweet French toast. This classic breakfast is made with a twist by rolling the bread in almonds and Corn Flakes. While the extra ingredients don’t change the taste much, it adds a fun crunch to every bite. Giant breakfast burritos filled with bacon, eggs and veggies are a good bet, too, but you might want to split those with a friend.

If you find yourself bunking at Greer Lodge Resort, take advantage of one of the many free services offered, like stargazing on the 5,000-square-foot patio or free fly-fishing lessons on weekends. Regardless of what your purpose for visiting Greer Lodge Resort, be sure to take a walk around the property, which is saturated with acres of green forest and offers three private lakes (complete with quacking ducks).

And no matter how you decide to spend your Greer vacation, chances are you’ll spend it restfully. From the quiet comfort of the town’s lodges to the quaint charm of its restaurants and steakhouses, there’s something for everyone in this cool mountain haven.
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