Photo by Amberian Peaks Lodge The Amberian Peaks Lodge

Most people think of the Colorado River as the fast-paced, rugged body of water that carved, among other things, the Grand Canyon, with its quick current and white rapids.

But if you follow this enormous river 8,500 feet up, up, up, into the White Mountains of eastern Arizona, you’ll find that it begins as a calm, gentle spring.

Leaving the hustle and bustle of Phoenix and following the U.S. 60 east is a similar experience – driving along the rugged edges of the Salt River Canyon, occasionally stopping to admire the stunning scenery of jagged rocks and eye-dropping depth until you escalate into the mountains and become surrounded by pine trees and neighboring peaks.

Toto, we’re not in Arizona, anymore.

Nestled in a valley of the White Mountains south of Show Low sits Greer, a picturesque escape from the sweltering Valley of the Sun.

Greer is a place of serene consistency. Every year, the snow that blankets the area melts into the Little Colorado, which flows year-round through the tiny village. Every summer, bird watchers from around the world gather in the mountain town to catch a glimpse of their feathered friends. And every year, Anne and Don Poyas welcome visitors back to their own escape, The Amberian Peaks Lodge and Restaurant – one of your best bets for a cozy overnight stay in Greer.

The Amberian Peaks Lodge sits at the top of a hill, surrounded by beautiful aspens, at the very edge of the tiny town. The lodge, unlike other mass-produced tourist traps in cooler corners of the state, is a perfect match for the surrounding mountain respite, with its rustic, wooden outer shell and cozy leather-, stone-, and wood-studded interior.

When you pull up to the Amberian Peaks Lodge, you’ll cross a one-lane bridge that spans the Little Colorado River, which at that point looks more like a mountain spring. Of course, the Little Colorado is much more than a mountain spring, much like the lodge is much more than it was when it opened in the 1970s. Known as one of the only ski resorts in the White Mountains, the lodge’s business was soon wiped out as skiing options around the Show Low area increased. Amberian Peaks soon became rundown and, eventually, isolated.

In 2004, Don and Anne Poyas left their corporate jobs on the East Coast in search of a friendly, relaxing life in the hospitality industry. And having once operated a charter sailboat on Catalina Island, the couple was well prepared for the challenges of getting a 22,500- square-foot mountain lodge up and running.

After months of renovations – painting, furnishing and decorating – Amberian Peaks Lodge opened to the public. Now in business for a couple of years, the owners welcome back dozens of repeat visitors each year who are enchanted with the lodge’s charming facilities and gracious service.

The moment you enter Amberian Peaks, Don or Anne (or both) greet you. They’ll ask you how your trip was, what activities you’re interested in and what they can do to make you more comfortable. And unlike most corporate resorts, they’ll follow through. Don, a gentleman through and through, carries your bags to your room (even though you might have done it more easily yourself) and takes you on a tour of the facility. Anne points out the unique decorative items, like the carved wooden deer head on the wall or the beam of wood that was saved from a fire and has a different tint than the others.

The friendly service isn’t the only thing you can get at this 16-unit lodge. While the rooms are comfortable and the amenities are plentiful, it’s the food that attracts most people to Amberian Peaks.