photo by Angelina Aragon

Keep on Truckin’

Written by Marilyn Hawkes Category: Three Bites Issue: March 2016
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Glorious March weather makes mobile eating even more appealing. Here are three new options to satisfy your food-truck fancy.

Frites Street
Not too long ago, the only place you’d find a food truck was a construction site – and the fare was tolerable at best. Today, food trucks are fixtures at farmers’ markets and other public events, dishing out everything from toasty lobster rolls to gourmet ramen. Some trucks specialize in one item, including Frites Street, a mobile unit devoted to Belgian pommes frites – the fraternal twin of the French fry. Owner Flip Isard partially fries his hand-cut taters and brines them overnight to achieve desired puffiness and flavor. Our favorites: poutine ($9, pictured), loaded with rich brown gravy, cold-smoked cheese curds and tart pickled red onions; pot roast fries ($12), crazy-tender shreds of top round roast with roasted baby carrots and roma tomatoes from local Abby Lee Farms; and the eggplant caponata fries ($10) smothered in earthy eggplant, fresh tomatoes, roasted garlic, capers and fresh basil dotted with creamy ricotta cheese.

SuperFarm SuperTruck
The offspring of Mesa dairy operator Superstition Farms, this moo-vable feast hits the road about four to five times a week with an ever-changing menu. During visits to Uptown Farmers’ Market, chef Adam Allison purchases vegetables onsite at McClendon’s Produce for breakfast hash ($9), a fried egg cradled in a nest of cubed sweet potatoes and squash, shishito and Aconcagua peppers, and sweet Campari tomatoes. Allison supplies a slice of Noble bread topped with local hot pepper jelly to mop up the yolk. We also love the achiote chicken pita with fries ($8) packed with spicy marinated chicken, local mixed greens, fresh cotija cheese and housemade chipotle crema, and crowned with pico de gallo.

Waffle Love
For a down and dirty sugar fix, sidle up to Waffle Love and splurge on a Liège waffle, a crispy concoction made from yeast dough, rolled in Belgian pearl sugar and cooked on a waffle iron to produce a caramelized crust. Or try the CinnaLove ($6), a wicked combination of waffle and sweet roll dripping with pools of housemade cinnamon butter and a layer of cream cheese frosting. According to owner Suni Taylor, the most popular offering is the Red Wonder ($8.50), a waffle slathered with European cookie butter, stacked with fresh strawberries and raspberries and capped by whipped cream. “We joke that it’s the eighth wonder of the world,” Taylor says. Waffle Love also has a restaurant in Gilbert (2743 S. Market St., Gilbert, 480-404-1066).

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