Infernal Yolks

Written by Gwen Ashley Walters Category: Three Bites Issue: January 2015
Group Mid-Level
Character count 2500

Eggs be deviled deluxe at these Valley eateries.

Proof Canteen
10600 E. Crescent Moon Dr., Scottsdale, 480-513-5085,
Deviled eggs aren’t just trendy – they’re ubiquitous. You can’t throw a rock without hitting a restaurant dishing up the classic ‘70s church-social mainstay. Blame it on the comfort food renaissance, or the enduring charm of the humble egg. We gobbled more than a dozen versions to find three not-your-grandma’s deviled eggs, including a lobster-studded specimen at Proof Canteen (four halves for $11, pictured). Chef Jesse Hansen’s whole menu is a riff on American comfort food – elevated to a higher level, of course, since Proof is tucked into the ultra-luxe Four Seasons. “We take chunks of Maine lobster, add some Old Bay seasoning, some celery, some lemon and a dash of Tabasco,” he says. Decadent lobster salad spooned over impeccable egg whites? Mission accomplished.

Salty Sow
4801 E. Cactus Rd., Phoenix,
Executive Chef Harold Marmulstein’s truffle-scented deviled eggs ($8) are ethereal and almost too pretty to eat – almost. The mousse-like filling is piped in swirled coifs, sprinkled with micro-minced chives and itsy bitsy pieces of salty, crisp bacon. How do they get that filling so light and fluffy? Technique. Flawlessly cooked yolks are mashed through a sieve to make them as smooth as a baby’s cheek. Mayonnaise is cut with whipped sour cream, a touch of Creole mustard and scant few drops of precious truffle oil. “Just enough to make you wonder what’s in the background but not enough to hit you over the head,” Marmulstein says.

The Standard Kitchen & Cocktails
10050 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale,
The Standard opened last August and has been wooing Old Town with globally-inspired comfort food prepared with classic French techniques ever since. Chef Christian Hanley’s deviled eggs ($8) are a twist on curried chicken salad, which gained worldwide popularity after appearing at Queen Elizabeth’s coronation luncheon in 1953. Spiked with Madras curry powder and green onions, the creamy yolk is offset with a pickled shallot ring, adding crunch and tartness. A smattering of crumbed herbed goat cheese strewn over the eggs’ bed of local micro arugula is a nice touch, too. No doubt the queen would approve.