insideSoi4

Soi4
8787 N. Scottsdale Road, Ste. 104, Scottsdale
480-778-1999, soifour.com

Opened: December 2010

Cuisine: Thai

Price: $$-$$$

Atmosphere: Soi is a Thai word for the side streets or alleyways that form the lifeline through Bangkok. And like that frenetic city, this restaurant is a bustling, high-energy place pulsing with new-wave tech music. It’s contrasted with a contemporary backdrop of warm, polished wood tables and modern sculpture – no kitschy Asian knickknacks in sight. Some of the best seats are cuddled up at a long, open banquette cushioned with colorful pillows, or perched in a private second-story loft dining room accessed by a slat-wood staircase glowing with golden lights. 

Outdoor seating: Yes

Key players: The owners are the Sirimongkolvit family, who also own four critically recognized eateries in the San Francisco area. Todd Sirimongkolvit is executive chef for the entire restaurant collection, and his sister Dannie Lum runs the Scottsdale kitchen alongside managing partner (and Dannie’s husband) Kin Lum.

Must-try menu items: Dishes are more authentic Asian than American-style sweet, so complex flavors shine through. You can get first-rate versions of all your favorites, but look for that extra touch, such as lime vinaigrette on the crispy veggie rolls ($7), or the golden fried egg option ($2.50) on crab fried rice ($11). The chef prepares creative signatures, such as pungent mustard leaves lining a canoe-like plate topped with scoops of chopped prawns mixed with roasted coconut, lime, citrusy pomelo, ginger, nuts, hot chile and sweet palm drizzled in a caramel-y sauce ($7). Vegetarians will be in heaven with elaborate creations such as star anise-braised tofu, shiitakes and baby bok choy atop glass noodles in a clay pot of rich broth ($11). But some may convert to carnivores for the toothsome pork shoulder, braised in coconut milk, doused in tangy red curry with chunks of kabocha squash and decorated with Thai basil ($13).

Drink to die for: The wall-length, usually packed bar is the first hint that Soi4 takes its libations seriously. What’s this? Artisan Asian cocktails? We salute the ingenious mind that came up with the Thai-inspired yet non-cliché Silky Sky ($8), a sweet-tart delight of lychee liqueur, Skyy vodka and ruby red grapefruit juice.

Secret of the house: Desserts are nearly always afterthoughts in Asian restaurants. But the chef here put forethought into homemade treats such as deep-fried mango encased in crispy, shatter-thin batter, served à la mode ($6.50), and elegant ice cream topped with warm, Chambord-soaked berries ($6).

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. M-F; 5-9:30 p.m. Su-Th; 5-10 p.m. F-Sa

Happy hour: 5-6:30 p.m. M-F with $5 “street snacks,” $6 specialty cocktails and $3 draft/bottle beers

Takes reservations: Yes

Brick oven pizzas are available in red and white (no sauce) and come loaded with toppings of your choice.

Spasso Pizza & Mozzarella Bar
4743 N. 20th St., Phoenix (Town & Country Shopping Center) 602-441-0030,
spassospizza.com

Opened: September 2010

Cuisine: Pizza/Italian

Price: $$-$$$

Atmosphere: Tucked into the center of the approachable Town & Country Shopping Center, this intimate eatery packs a lot of charm into a small space. The back wall replicates a slice of an Italian village, and tables cluster around a huge artificial tree in the center of the room. A shade-dappled wraparound patio is an organic extension of the dining room, and the whole setup feels like a little trattoria in Spoleto.

Outdoor seating: Yes

Key players: Chef/owner Michael Lepore (former owner of Leccabaffi); general manager Luis Mata (former owner of Plaza Grill and, prior to that, manager of Such Is Life)

Must-try menu items: As the name suggests, you can’t go wrong with the high-quality, house-made cheeses (fresh mozzarella, smoked mozzarella and the assertive scamorza) served with roasted vegetables (one choice $10.95, two $12.95, three $14.95). Fact is, virtually everything served here is made from scratch, including bread, sauces, dressings, sausage and desserts. Of course, the thin-crusted yet sturdy brick-oven pizzas ($11.95-$15.95) are terrific as well. Stellar appetizers include grilled calamari ($9.95) and marvelous crusty eggplant fritters ($8.95). Pastas shine, particularly the orecchiette with sausage and rapini ($14.95). As cooler weather approaches, look for specials that will include venison, rabbit, quail, fegato (liver) and a classic veal chop.

Drink to die for: The house-made limoncello and tangerinecello (made with tangerines) are sweet, citric and mighty potent. Order a ’cello spritzer ($7) muddled with mint as an aperitif; it works as a refreshing quaff with food as well. After dinner, a thimble-sized glass of the liqueur ($6) is the perfect accompaniment to a steaming espresso and dessert.

Secret of the house: Craving cioppino, braciole, scungilli or any other hard-to-find Italian delicacy? Just give Lepore a call: With 24-hour notice the kitchen can whip up virtually anything in the Italian culinary spectrum. We’ll go for the grilled cuttlefish.

Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. M-Sa

Happy hour: 4-6 p.m. M-F. Enjoy any appetizer for $5 along with $3 beer, $4 well drinks and $5 glasses of wine.

Takes reservations: Yes

Polenta cake topped with roasted tomatoes and spinach

Tanzy
15257 N. Scottsdale Road,
Scottsdale (Scottsdale Quarter)
480-483-3255, tanzyrestaurant.com

Opened:  January 2011

Cuisine: Mediterranean

Price: $$$

Atmosphere: Over-the-top with no excess spared is the best way to describe Tanzy. Perched at the top of a vertiginous escalator, it’s a big and flashy Vegas-style production with floor-to-ceiling windows, smoky colors and striking architectural details. Booths are huge, lighting is subdued and a wall-sized display of wine bottles makes for an absolutely stunning room divider.

Outdoor seating: Yes

Key players: Owner iPic Entertainment, general manager Tony Brunetti, executive chef Geoff Baumberger

Must-try menu items: While nominally Mediterranean, Tanzy’s culinary style is imaginative and far-reaching. Simple, good-quality ingredients are treated with pizzazz, starting with appetizers such as polenta cakes with melted cheese and a drizzle of butter ($9), and a classic version of carpaccio ($12). For the main course it’s a tough call among flaky black cod ($26), tender short ribs ($28) and mushroom risotto with saffron ($19). No better way to finish than with croissant bread pudding dotted with chocolate and topped with a dollop of Chambord-flavored whipped cream ($8).

Drink to die for: Tanzy’s prickly pear margarita ($11) with Arizona honey is made with Chinaco Silver Estate tequila and, as the menu puts it, “love.” Whatever that special ingredient, it’s a tasty treat that’s refreshing in summer and warming in cooler weather.

Secret of the house: Fresh pulled mozzarella served tableside with an assortment of flavored salts and oils.

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Su-Th; 11 a.m.-midnight F-Sa

Happy hour: From 3-6 p.m. M-F, Chef Baumberger hosts an artisan table with complimentary samples of a variety of foods. Also, a different high-end red and white wine is featured for $6 along with one of Tanzy’s 11 specialty cocktails priced at $9.

Takes reservations: Yes

Chef Johnny Chu, formerly of Fate, heads up the menu at this Chandler hot spot.

Tien Wong Hot Pot
2330 N. Alma School Road, Chandler
480-802-2525, thehotpots.com

Opened: December 2010

Cuisine: Asian

Price: $-$$

Atmosphere: You park in a stripped-down strip mall, almost walk past the nondescript storefront but spot a red neon sign that reads “Hot Pot.” Then you open the door and discover a hip, mod-Asian space decked out with silk lanterns and voluptuous vases where cool clientele bob their heads and chopsticks to pulsing indie rock while slurping from burbling cauldrons of soup.

Outdoor seating: No

Key players: Chef-owner Johnny Chu (formerly of Fate)

Must-try menu items: Hot pots of soup are pretty much the whole deal here, but choice isn’t limited: You build your bowl from a jaw-dropping list of exotic ingredients. First choose a broth, such as rich, herbal lemongrass ($4.95), delicate vegetarian miso ($4.95) or robust Thai curry ($4.95). Indecisive? Go for the Yin-Yang ($5.95), a single bowl split into a duo of Hong Kong-style and Taiwanese-style bases. Then pile in whatever tempts your appetite. Start with starches, such as silky clear ($2) or fat udon ($3) noodles, or jasmine rice ($2). Power up with premium protein like Wagyu beef ($8), shabu-shabu beef ($5) or lobster ($9). Daring diners go for authentic add-ins such as tongue ($4), pork blood cake ($3), which is way better than it sounds, and shrimp with crunchy heads still on ($5). Toss in some veggies, swish, swirl and slurp.

Drink to die for: It’s BYOB, but who needs alcohol when the chef puts a creative spin on house-made juices such as herbal sugar cane ($2), watermelon-strawberry ($4), or coconut milk ($2)? They’re light and palate-cleansing alongside that steaming, highly seasoned soup.

Secret of the house: Most hot-pot cooking emphasizes meat, but this spot is nirvana for vegetarians. There are eight kinds of tofu ($2-$3), seven kinds of mushrooms ($2-$4), uncommon greens such as tongo ($3) or gai choy ($2), and slippery sweet Korean pumpkin ($3).

Hours: 4 p.m.-midnight daily

Happy hour: No

Takes reservations: Yes

Grilled talapia with mango salsa, rice and vegetables, topped with plantain spears

Tryst Café
21050 N. Tatum Blvd., Ste. 108, Phoenix
480-585-7978, trystcafe.com

Opened: December 2010

Cuisine: Mediterranean/International

Price: $$

Atmosphere: From the outside it looks like a straightforward strip mall. Inside, it’s a neighborhood bistro with streamlined wood furniture, lots of windows and a showpiece bar backed by colorful, Asian-style fabric wall hangings. The patio is actually the prime real estate, however, feeling somewhat Parisian with its cozy seats and cranked-up world music, protected from the elements by slick plastic drapes. Bring the little kids or bring a first date – the relaxed, classy mood works on all levels, and the friendly staff adapt to whatever level of service you’d like, be it sippy cup or a limited production organic sauvignon blanc.

Outdoor seating: Yes

Key players: Owners Sami and Lisa Khnanisho

Must-try menu items: Healthy tater tots. Need we say more? When this fun spot says it takes a good-for-you approach to cooking, it even includes these tasty treats, made from sweet potatoes ($3.25). What they really mean is that most ingredients are organic, 100-percent natural, and often locally grown or produced, down to the ice teas from Scottsdale’s China Mist. There are vegan and vegetarian options, such as a summer roll chockfull of mango and veggies wrapped in rice paper and dunked in spicy chile-mango sauce ($6), or a gluten-free, open-faced portobello sandwich ($10). But what gets our hearts really thumping are the meat dishes, which may be prepared in a healthy way but definitely are not diet food. The Hawaiian breakfast is a monster bowl of fried eggs and house-smoked kalua pork so tender it falls apart with a sharp glance, set over cabbage, jasmine rice and wonton chips ($10). The French toast Monte Cristo is overstuffed with ham and gruyère and glazed with strawberry jam ($11). And what’s not to love about snacks such as shrimp “cigars” ($10) – clever little “lumpia” (egg rolls) stuffed with seafood mousse? We’re not even going to pretend that the “Bring It on Burger” ($13) – mounded with capicola ham, buffalo mozzarella, roasted tomatoes and pesto alongside a pile of waffle fries – is Puritan, but dang, it’s delicious.

Drink to die for: Insiders know to ask for the Bloody Mary ($9), based on organic cucumber vodka and made-to-order to whatever spice level you desire.

Secret of the house: This isn’t an all-day breakfast place, but if something from the a.m. menu strikes your fancy and the kitchen isn’t too busy, it will cheerfully accommodate.

Hours: 7:30 a.m.-9 p.m. daily

Happy hour: “Halfy Hour” runs daily from 3-6 p.m., with a generous offering of half-off the entire drink and food menu.

Takes reservations: Yes

Prime pho bo with meatballs and steak strips

Viet Kitchen
114 W. Adams St., Phoenix
602-262-5535,
vietkitchenaz.com

Other location: north Phoenix, 602-788-5535

Opened: November 2010

Cuisine: Vietnamese

Price: $

Atmosphere: The dining room is basic, with generic black tables and chairs and dark tile floors, but it’s light and bright thanks to big windows. The humble décor belies the complexity of the food. Aromatic pho (pronounced “fuh”), the signature dish of Vietnam, is rich yet floral. Produce is fresh as it can be in every dish. The mood can get manic here as Downtowners flood in at lunch hour and dishes fly to and fro, but a sense of pride pervades the cuisine, as you can see from the hardworking chefs in the open kitchen. Service is quick yet conscientious and accommodating – extra plates and napkins are brought with a smile; drink refills are prompt. And if you do want to stay and linger, you’re never rushed out.

Outdoor seating: No

Key players: Husband-and-wife owners Tung Nguyen and Jenny Phan

Must-try menu items: Start with spring rolls ($3.75 for two), beef lovers salad ($9.50) or papaya salad ($9.50). Prime pho bo ($7.25) with meatballs and thin, silky strips of steak is a good one to try if you’re new to the dish. Regular stir-fry ($7.25) and house stir-fry egg noodle ($8.75) with a colorful vegetable medley and meat trio (beef, shrimp and chicken) will satisfy both Asian aficionados and newbies. Spice fans, go for ca ry banh mi ($7.75), zesty yellow curry in coconut milk with chicken, potatoes and carrots, served with a small French loaf.

Drink to die for: Vietnamese iced coffee ($3) is sweet but packs a punch. No liquor license.

Secret of the house: Nguyen was never interested in cooking, but a cousin in Vietnam talked him into opening a restaurant. The cousin taught him how to cook, and every night for six months before opening their first location, Nguyen would cook for 10 to 20 people in his home to practice. All the recipes at Viet Kitchen are his, and he’s extremely picky about his ingredients.

Hours: 8 a.m.-3:30 p.m. M-F (summer); 8 a.m.-8:30 p.m. M-F starting in October

Happy hour: No

Takes reservations: Yes

inside Vitamin T

Vitamin T
1 E. Washington St., Ste. 175, Phoenix (CityScape)
602-688-8168, eatmoretacos.com

Opened: December 2010

Cuisine: Mexican

Price: $

Atmosphere: It’s bright, colorful and tidy, and the line at the counter moves fast, but once you have your food it’s a little tricky. The space was designed for Downtowners to do take-out, so it’s cramped inside with just 14 seats and a lot of elbowing and bumping to get to the salsa bar and soda fountain. The patio seats 16; plans are in the works to expand and add misters and awnings. If you’re Downtown, it’s one of the best choices for grabbing a quick bite at lunch, while shopping at CityScape or before a game (it’s within sight of US Airways Center and within walking distance of Chase Field). The name comes from the nickname for the grab-and-go tacos, tortas, tamales, etc., sold at taquerias and puestos (food stalls) in Mexico. They validate underground parking – come up through the office building and make a right.

Outdoor seating: Yes

Key players: Chef/owner Aaron May (Mabel’s on Main, Iruña, The Lodge, Over Easy); chef/managing partner Peder Bondhus

Must-try menu items: Green salad ($6), black beans ($3), barbacoa tacos (all tacos are $2.50 each or three for $7), gooey queso fundido tacos, the juicy ahogado (drowned) torta ($7), zesty Sonoran dog ($6) and, seasonally in cooler months, pozole (pork and hominy stew, $5)

Drink to die for: Frozen margaritas – classic ($5) or pomegranate, peach, ginger or apple ($6). They also sell Dos Equis ($4 and $6 drafts) and chilled shots of Don Julio ($6 for blanco, $8 for reposado, $10 for añejo), but that’s the extent of the bar menu.

Secret of the house: May and Bondhus took a two-week road trip through Mexico for research. Bondhus estimates they ate at “10,000 taco stands,” causing him to gain 30 pounds (he jokingly says May, however, retained his “svelte” physique). Their creations are mostly inspired by the cuisine of Sonora and Oaxaca, but May – who has worked in Paris – and Bondhus – who did stints at Mary Elaine’s and Le Bernadin – bring French techniques to their fare as well.

Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. M-Sa; 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Su

Happy hour: 3-6 p.m. M-F and all day Sa-Su; $3 classic margaritas, $4 flavored margaritas, $3 and $5 draft beers, $2 off shots

Takes reservations: No