Turron at iruna

Written by Gwen Ashley Walters Category: Food Reviews Issue: September 2011
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Irunã’s turrón ($6) consists of just a few ingredients – the same ones in the candy it’s named after: egg whites, honey and almonds.

Patafio starts with an Italian meringue base, but instead of whipping boiling sugar into egg whites, he uses boiling honey to concentrate the honey flavor. Then he folds in toasted, chopped Spanish marcona almonds and soft whipped cream; the former lends crunch and the latter delivers cloudlike creaminess.

He pipes the mixture into silicone muffin molds and tops them with a sliver of vanilla sponge cake before freezing them.

The frozen parfait is placed cake-side down (so it doesn’t slide), surrounded by sugared, sliced marcona almonds and drizzled with local desert honey that has been reduced to a thick syrup with a vanilla bean and a spritz of lemon for brightness.

Cool, creamy, crunchy, honeyed sweetness – a perfect ending to our still sweltering summer nights.

7217 E. First St., Scottsdale

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