The Hash Kitchen

Written by Wynter Holden Category: Food Reviews Issue: November 2015
Group Free

The Maggiore family’s new breakfast joint delivers on modern, mouthwatering morning meals.

If Tomaso Maggiore is the godfather of local Italian cuisine, Joey Maggiore is the prodigal son intent on taking the family business in a new direction. Dad’s flagship restaurant, Tomaso’s, has changed little since opening in 1977, yet the younger Maggiore is constantly reimagining his eateries – turning the former Notorious Burgers into a barbecue joint, for example, and shuttering adjacent Cuttlefish after a brief two-year run.

PHM1115EBSD02In its place is The Hash Kitchen, a chic “brunchery” specializing in hashes, scrambles and sweets. The bones of its piscine predecessor remain intact: hi-top community tables, sleek white furnishings, tall booths. The former oyster bar with its quirky Vespa seating is now a Build-Your-Own Bloody Mary station with 40 craft toppings. Decorator Cristina Maggiore’s oceanic color palette in Cuttlefish has surrendered to cheerier reds and oranges punctuated by a funky chalkboard mural of a surf and turf cocktail.

The vibe here is fresh; the experience refined. Maggiore’s front of the house boasts fine-dining-caliber service and a high level of control that carries over into the kitchen. Dishes are uniquely inspired and prepared with restraint.

Hash Kitchen’s brisket and corn bread hash ($11) is perfectly balanced. The beef is tender and lean, served with delicate poached eggs. The sweetness of bell pepper and corn contrasts beautifully with the tanginess of green chile, in the same way moist pulled chicken grounds the flavorful verde sauce of chilaquiles ($12) made with thick-cut house chips. Spicy chorizo and nutty manchego make ideal bedfellows in The Spaniard frittata ($11), while pepper jack and jalapeño make for a slightly more fiery Mexicana scrambler ($10) cooled by creamy avocado chunks. Pair either with a BYO Bloody Mary ($10) garnished with garlic olives and pepperoni straw for a tongue-tingling wakeup.  

Not every ingredient combo plays nicely on the plate. Lump crab and sweet potato hash ($13) lacks a foil to mitigate all the sweetness, and buttermilk fried chicken is inconsistently marinated – succulent and crisp when topped with bitter fried leeks and sugary maple reduction (it’s essentially a Southern take on eggs Benedict), but rubbery and unappealing atop waffles ($12/$13). Duck the poultry and opt instead for a Luxury Burger ($11) or Hash Kitchen’s abundant Cuban ($12). Earthy mushrooms richen the beef patty, with hints of prosciutto and cherry pepper to perk up the panino. For lighter fare, the gentle vinaigrette and crisp roasted corn of couscous and kale salad ($9) manages to harmonize ingredients without sacrificing flavors.       

PHM1115EBSD03À la carte pancakes and French toast might as well be dessert. Zesty lemon-ricotta flapjacks ($9) are refreshingly light and fluffy, with zippy, borderline-bitter citrus notes. It’s a solid dish, especially paired with a bubbly mimosa, but nothing near the gooey indulgence of coconut- and almond-encrusted French toast ($13). It’s like eating a giant macaroon.

Joey Maggiore may be more trendy than traditional, but clearly he learned a few things from his old man. From fiery frittatas and perky panini to decadent, nut-crusted French toast, Maggiore’s menu delivers on creativity and taste. Bottom line: Hash Kitchen is one breakfast joint I can’t refuse.

DETAILS
The Hash Kitchen
Cuisine: Breakfast
Contact: 8777 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale, 480-947-3214, thehashkitchen.com
Hours: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. daily
Highlights: Brisket and corn bread hash ($11); The Spaniard ($11); Mexicana scrambler ($10); Cuban panino ($12);  couscous and kale salad ($9); lemon-ricotta pancakes ($9); coconut- and almond-encrusted French toast ($13); BYO Bloody Mary Bar ($10)