Sens

Written by Elin Jeffords Category: Food Reviews Issue: March 2009
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The very congenial staff is headed up by chef/owner Johnny Chu, formerly of Fate. (How personable were the guys who waited on us? Let’s just say if I were working for another restaurant, I would have done my best and pineapple in sesame-redolent broth was an offb eat delight ($10). Soup gyozas – broth-fi lled noodle packets ($6) – are more fun than popcorn, and plump fi ve-spice perfumed  chicken wings ($5) will make you forget Buff alo. Limemint beef is similar to ceviche, zingy with sweet chile sauce ($9), but the volcano beef ($9) didn’t thrill, only because it was cut too thickly to properly cook on the hot stone. I wish that every salad out there were as appealing as the slivered duck tossed with mint and julienned veggies in a ginger-vinaigrette ($8). Papaya mango spring rolls were also ideal, thin-shelled and greaseless ($5). And the lightly crusted, mild chicken breast was a nice foil for tongue-searing wasabi sauce. Sens is sans dessert for now, but the experience is likely to leave both a sweet and spicy taste in your mouth.

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