Daily Dose

Written by Carey Sweet Category: Food Reviews Issue: January 2009

($11.95), raspberry waffles ($9.95), mahi tacos ($8.95), shrimp nicoise ($11.95) and such, served in giant but prettifed portions.
Positioning the place as a regular habit – one of those no-nonsense joints that feed and libate the masses – was good business in these cost-conscious times, yet potentially dull, considering its location in trendy Old Town Scottsdale. Except that DD’s owners are Matt and JenLyn Long, who also own Fusion just a few blocks away, an eclectic bistro known for grabbing a familiar dish such as Harris Ranch tenderloin by its lapels and shaking it up with a surprising splash of tequila-sage butter. Happily, the Longs have inscribed their signature on DD, too – an eggs Benedict ($8.95), for one delectable example, tucks fat crumbles of tongue-sizzling chorizo under the velvety hollandaise, while a seasonal “DD hash” on the side brought an autumn chop of roasted acorn squash with juicy mushrooms. And look out: Th e Daily Dose burger ($10.95) sneaks a healthy smear of firery harissa aioli on the honey oat bun, mingling flame with the crunch of applewood bacon, creamy aged cheddar and fragrant fresh basil. Lunch and dinner tempt with top-notch salmon ($10.95), rubbed in red chile and seared, then plated atop thinly shaved fennel, romaine, red onion and tomato in silky raita.

But the bang-up delicious breakfasts, served until 2 p.m. daily, still prevail. The line of would-be guests often wraps around the brick-walled sidewalk patio, yet no one hurries you from your seat. “We don’t cook fast,” one waitress purred, laying down an especially good prime rib and crimini omelet ($10.95) the size of a small pillow. “Now you take your time to enjoy.” While bedraggled Jim Beam imbibers aren’t common clientele, DD does hang its hat on a Hangover – the cutely named breakfast sandwich ($9.95) that layers apple-wood bacon, thin curls of caramelized jalapeño and onion, cheddar, and a big, chewy slab of Schreiner’s turkey sausage atop thick, springy slices of artisan sourdough. The kicker’s in the slick of harissa aioli and an egg of your choice (get it over easy so the pierced yolk rushes thick and golden into the bread). Because it’s breakfast, there’s great excuse to be naughty, too (eat at the bar for an especially wicked touch). How else to explain banana split pancakes ($9.95)? Th e pie-size rounds are quickly gobbled up, buried under sliced fresh fruit plus Häagen-Dazs vanilla, chocolate and strawberry ice cream painted in chocolate sauce. Cap the decadence with a rich mahogany brown espresso ($2.50), no sugar needed. “You don’t have to be a foodie to eat here,” commented one diner on his way out the door. “But being a glutton helps.” At press time, the restaurant had just received its liquor license, meaning this haven for gluttony is now open until midnight on Thursdays through Saturdays.