Chick Rotisserie and Wine Bar

Written by Carey Sweet Category: Food Reviews Issue: August 2012

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Owners Allen and Traci Thompson, who also run The Grind, are known for serving hip riffs on classic fare in a high-impact setting. Chick is no exception – think farmhouse meets New York bar with chandeliers.

The simple menu is rotisserie-meats-centric, as evidenced by the rotating racks of roasted chicken, pork, steak and seafood. You can buy a quarter, half or whole chicken à la carte ($6, $10, $19) or family-style with two sides ($10, $15, $28). The succulent, mesquite-brined bird is free-range organic, and for a $3 to $9 upcharge, you can get it glazed in black truffle butter and rosemary. 

 

phm0812ebsd 2 mdPork glistens with a Cave Creek honey, garlic and herb glaze ($11), and the daily market fish is served whole, roasted with grilled lemon and herbs ($16). By comparison, I found the beef filet ($21) a bit dull, though admirably tender. Each meat comes with a choice of sauce – teriyaki, garlic cream, Mandarin orange chutney, jerk, jalapeño cheese, peach barbecue and such – all nice, but frankly, I’d happily eat this meat plain.

Chef Bevin O’Neil crafts a satisfying chicken pot pie ($9) that comes a close second to the magical chicken and dumplings. 

Dishes can overload on flavors – buttermilk biscuits are stuffed with chorizo and manchego cheese alongside garlic cream sauce ($6), while a pork sandwich is nearly buried under sliced apples, baby spinach and bleu cheese on a croissant ($8). 

The creamed corn side with char-grilled kernels, sweet cream and mint ($6) is some of the best I’ve had. Whipped potatoes ($7) are first-rate, topped with a choice of three garnishes from a list of 10, like roasted jalapeño cheese or applewood smoked bacon.

Cozy-creative desserts include homemade cinnamon rolls soused with Grand Marnier glaze and hazelnuts ($5), and petite seasonal fruit pies ($6). Be sure to explore sexy cocktails like the Oh Snap ($10), which deliciously complements the food-menu flavor profiles with Bulleit Rye bourbon, Snap gingersnap liqueur, Arizona honey, cranberry and orange juice with a dash of bitters.

I gotta say it: Chick is a coop. Um, coup.

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DETAILS
Chick Rotisserie & Wine Bar
Cuisine: American
Address: 3943 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix
Phone: 602-396-4690
Website: chickrotisseriebar.com
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily
Highlights: Chicken and dumplings ($8), chicken pot pie ($9), rotisserie chicken ($6-$19), creamed corn ($6), whipped
potatoes ($7)