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Gwen Ashley Walters
September, 2013, Page 166
Photo by David Moore
Blue Hound’s Executive Chef Stephen Jones loves cooking American food with a Southern flair – even though he’s never lived in the South. “I’ve always loved Southern food because it’s based on farm-fresh ingredients,” the New Jersey-born, California-raised chef says. “Really soulful, that’s what it is.”
When farmer Wendell Crow of Crow’s Dairy dropped off a quart of goats’ milk for the chef to try, Jones knew exactly what he wanted to make with it: savory corn cakes – with a gourmet twist, of course.
Jones simmers the goats’ milk with heavy cream, cornmeal, charred corn kernels, shallots, roasted garlic, a bay leaf and a splash of vegetable stock just until it starts to thicken, then he stirs in goat cheese. It’s strained and poured into a sheet pan to firm and chill overnight. When an order comes in, the corn cakes are cut into 3-inch disks and seared on a blazing hot griddle, forming a thin caramelized crust that gives way to a silky smooth cooked-custard interior. Jones then tops the “cakes” with a dollop of red onion jam and slices of marinated summer squash for a delicious trifecta. Pair the cakes ($5 for two; $7 for four; $10 for six) with chilled, tangy roasted tomato gazpacho ($3 for a shot; $5 for a cup; $7 for a bowl) for a soulful respite from summer’s never-ending heat.
Blue Hound Kitchen & Cocktails
2 E. Jefferson St., Phoenix
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