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Food Reviews

Cowboy S’Mores

Author: Gwen Ashley Walters
Issue: October, 2012, Page 196
Photo by Richard Maack


SWEET SPOT

If your idea of “camping” is polishing off mesquite-grilled elk tenderloin while comfortably seated in the gentrified rancher outpost of Cartwright’s Sonoran Ranch House, we’ve got a dessert for you: Cowboy S’Mores ($11).

But hold on, pardner, this is no ordinary campfire treat. Pastry Chef Amanda Crick, who has been with Cartwright’s and sister restaurant Tonto Bar & Grill since 2001, makes each component of the flaming crock dessert from scratch.

She starts by baking graham cracker crumbs with copious amounts of butter and sweetened condensed milk. Once cooled, the cookie is cut into crouton-size cubes and baked again, creating a crunchy exterior and soft, chewy interior.
The cubes go into the bottom of a mini cast iron crock.

Next, Crick makes a dark chocolate ganache by pouring scalding cream over 64 percent premium dark chocolate and whips it for aeration. She spreads the fluffy ganache over the graham cubes and places a thin slice of chocolate chiffon cake over the ganache as a base for the marshmallow meringue. Egg whites whipped with sugar and gelatin create Crick’s sticky marshmallow, which she pipes over the chiffon cake base and all around the edge of the crock, forming a shallow pool – perfect for holding a splash of rum.

Tableside, a server douses the warm crock with Bacardi 151°, flicks a lighter, and poof! The marshmallow toasts before your eyes. Blow out the flame if you want minimal browning, or let it extinguish for a charred toast. No assembly required – all you have to do is grab a spoon and dig in.

DETAILS
Cartwright’s Sonoran Ranch House
6710 E. Cave Creek Rd., Cave Creek
480-488-8031
cartwrightssonoranranchhouse.com