frank & albert’s condiments
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Frank & Albert’s Condiments
Gwen Ashley Walters
September, 2012, Page 153
Photo by Nicole Roegner
It happens all the time: You’re riding in your limo, someone pulls up and asks, “Pardon me, but would you have any amber ale-infused tarragon-horseradish mustard?” Now, finally, you can reply, “But of course.”
Frank & Albert’s gussied-up comfort food calls for equally enhanced condiments, so Executive Chef Todd Sicolo and Executive Sous Chef Conor Favre slaved over the stove in search of worthy accompaniments. And now you can take a bottle (or two) home.
Developing the tarragon mustard was an exercise in compromise. “I like spicy, and Conor likes texture and floral notes,” Sicolo says. Dijon mustard and horseradish are Sicolo’s contributions, and whole grain mustard plus the honey and tarragon are Favre’s additions. Both agreed on the amber ale infusion. And you’ll agree it’s terrific on the restaurant’s French dip. At home, smear it on a turkey sandwich, or use it to elevate an egg salad.
Their chipotle ketchup has a hint of orange and smoke, plus a subtle kick. “It took 25 times to get it right,” Sicolo says, “and in the end, the last recipe was the most simple of all.” The kitchen slathers the ketchup on meatloaf, and pours it in a dish alongside a tower of white cornmeal-crusted onion rings.
Purchase the condiments at the restaurant, or at the coffee shop in the courtyard of the Arizona Biltmore. $5 each.
Frank & Albert’s
2400 E. Missouri Ave., Phoenix
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