chick rotisserie and wine bar
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Chick Rotisserie and Wine Bar
August, 2012, Page 176
Photos by Davis Moore
Half rotisserie chicken family-style with creamed corn and whipped potatoes
From the owners of gourmet burger bastion The Grind comes this next-door paean to posh poultry.
I’m still dreaming of the chicken and dumplings at Chick. During my first visit, the mercury hit 112 degrees – hardly prime dumpling-ordering weather. But I ordered them anyway, and was rewarded with two softball-sized, dense-yet-pillowy buttermilk orbs, swimming in rich velouté with tender torn chicken ($8). I can still smell the heady perfume of rosemary, taste the slight sting of pepper, and feel the crunch of celery.
Owners Allen and Traci Thompson, who also run The Grind, are known for serving hip riffs on classic fare in a high-impact setting. Chick is no exception – think farmhouse meets New York bar with chandeliers.
The simple menu is rotisserie-meats-centric, as evidenced by the rotating racks of roasted chicken, pork, steak and seafood. You can buy a quarter, half or whole chicken à la carte ($6, $10, $19) or family-style with two sides ($10, $15, $28). The succulent, mesquite-brined bird is free-range organic, and for a $3 to $9 upcharge, you can get it glazed in black truffle butter and rosemary.
chicken and dumplings
Pork glistens with a Cave Creek honey, garlic and herb glaze ($11), and the daily market fish is served whole, roasted with grilled lemon and herbs ($16). By comparison, I found the beef filet ($21) a bit dull, though admirably tender. Each meat comes with a choice of sauce – teriyaki, garlic cream, Mandarin orange chutney, jerk, jalapeño cheese, peach barbecue and such – all nice, but frankly, I’d happily eat this meat plain.
Chef Bevin O’Neil crafts a satisfying chicken pot pie ($9) that comes a close second to the magical chicken and dumplings.
Dishes can overload on flavors – buttermilk biscuits are stuffed with chorizo and manchego cheese alongside garlic cream sauce ($6), while a pork sandwich is nearly buried under sliced apples, baby spinach and bleu cheese on a croissant ($8).
The creamed corn side with char-grilled kernels, sweet cream and mint ($6) is some of the best I’ve had. Whipped potatoes ($7) are first-rate, topped with a choice of three garnishes from a list of 10, like roasted jalapeño cheese or applewood smoked bacon.
Cozy-creative desserts include homemade cinnamon rolls soused with Grand Marnier glaze and hazelnuts ($5), and petite seasonal fruit pies ($6). Be sure to explore sexy cocktails like the Oh Snap ($10), which deliciously complements the food-menu flavor profiles with Bulleit Rye bourbon, Snap gingersnap liqueur, Arizona honey, cranberry and orange juice with a dash of bitters.
I gotta say it: Chick is a coop. Um, coup.
Chick Rotisserie & Wine Bar
: 3943 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix
: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily
: Chicken and dumplings ($8), chicken pot pie ($9), rotisserie chicken ($6-$19), creamed corn ($6), whipped
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