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Gwen Ashley Walters
June, 2012, Page 161
Photo by David Moore
What do you do with a bushel of blood oranges and a garden rife with mint? If you’re Pastry Chef Trevor Tucker of Lon’s at the Hermosa Inn, you gussy up a tres leches cake ($10) with sculptural shapes and citrusy tastes.
The Latin-inspired “three milks” cake starts out modestly enough as a basic vanilla sponge cake soaked in a mixture of sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, and heavy cream until it’s dripping with milky sweetness. But then Tucker ups the ante, spreading a fluffy, cloud-like mousse flavored with blood orange juice on top of the cake, and finally wrapping it in a layer of creamy white chocolate before flash-chilling it in the fridge.
Cajeta – goat’s milk caramel made with fresh goat’s milk from Crow’s Dairy – crowns the top, creating a luscious pool perched with a slice of poached, dried blood orange. Don’t set that orange wheel aside – bite into it for a chewy, citrusy treat. Swooshes of a tangy blood orange purée and a refreshing mint purée from Lon’s garden finish the eye-catching dessert. It’s a seasonal treat, so get there before the blood oranges are gone.
Lon’s cowboy candy bar ($10), on the other hand, is a permanent fixture on the dessert menu – a sea-salt-sprinkled, ganache-covered goodie with a crisp feuilletine base and a spicy, ancho chile chocolate nougat with Marcona almonds.
Either dessert will excel as a delicious denouement to Chef Jeremy Pacheco’s seasonally inspired American cuisine.
Lon’s at the Hermosa Inn
5532 N. Palo Christi Rd., Paradise Valley
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